Landmarks of Charleston / Including Description of an Incomparable Stroll
Date: 2019-02-20T00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Historic buildings -- South Carolina -- Charleston; Charleston (S.C.) -- Guidebooks

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Title: Landmarks of Charleston

Author: Thomas Petigru Lesesne

Release date: February 20, 2019 [eBook #58921]

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Stephen Hutcheson and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LANDMARKS OF CHARLESTON ***

St. Michael’s Episcopal Church, Broad and Meeting Streets: its Steeple and Chimes Famous Courtesy of South Carolina National Bank

LANDMARKS of
CHARLESTON

INCLUDING DESCRIPTION OF
An Incomparable Stroll

BY
THOMAS PETIGRU LESESNE
AUTHOR OF
History of Charleston County

RICHMOND
GARRETT & MASSIE, INCORPORATED
MCMXXXIX

iv

COPYRIGHT, 1939, BY
GARRETT & MASSIE, INCORPORATED
RICHMOND, VIRGINIA

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
v

Foreword

One’s task in discussing Landmarks of Charleston is to describe the more outstanding from the beginning of Charles Town to this present year. It is an agreeable task, but it leaves undone some things one wishes he had done.

An Incomparable Stroll will give the visitor information of people and places of Charles Town under the Lords Proprietors, Charlestown under the Royal Government, and Charleston under the Republic.

The gardens which bring thousands of visitors to Charleston each spring are reached by excellent highways. Middleton Place and Magnolia-on-the-Ashley are on the Ashley River Road; Cypress off the Coastal Highway, United States 52. These gardens are so different that they are not competitive, and the visitor questing for beauty that baffles description should see all three, and, time permitting, journey toward Georgetown and enjoy the famous Belle Isle Gardens, on Winyah Bay.

In this work the index has been compiled with great care and should be consulted freely. Charleston’s points vi of interest are too scattered to be grouped on a single route. Near Charleston are traces of fortifications used in the Revolution and in the War for Southern Independence. They are too numerous for individual enumeration. Books have been written about them.

From the building of the Colonial Powder Magazine to the building of the Cooper River Bridge, the third highest vehicular bridge in the world, is a tremendous gap.

It is unnecessary to say that the author has consulted many authorities; his quotations suffice to reveal this.

Thomas Petigru Lesesne.

Charleston,

South Carolina.

vii

Contents

PAGE

Foreword v

Historic Charleston 1

An Incomparable Stroll 6

Landmarks of Charleston (Guide Section) 13

Index 105

ix

Illustrations

PAGE

St. Michael’s Episcopal Church Frontispiece

Fort Sumter from the Air 6

Looking North on Meeting Street 18

St. Philip’s Episcopal Church 25

William Rhett House 31

The Izard Houses 31

Unitarian Church 36

St. John’s Lutheran Church 36

Huguenot Church 36

First (Scotch) Presbyterian Church 43

Bethel Methodist Church 43

Alluring Views of Magnolia-on-Ashley 49

St. Mary’s Catholic Church 56

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist 61

Trinity Methodist Church 61

Trumbull’s Portrait of General George Washington 67

City Hall 71

College of Charleston 71

The Old Exchange 71

Middleton Place 76

Miles Brewton House 81

“Sword Gates” 81

Gateway, Home of Herbert Ravenel Sass 81

Lord William Campbell House 86

William Washington House 86

Monument to Defenders of Fort Moultrie 94

Colonial Powder Magazine 94

Strawberry, Chapel of Ease to Biggin 99

St. James Church, Goose Creek 99

xi

LANDMARKS OF CHARLESTON

1

Historic Charleston

Why Charleston? Three European nations were claiming this southern country—the Spaniards called it Florida, the French Carolina and the English Southern Virginia. The Spanish claim was through Ponce de Leon, 1512; the French through Verazzano, a Florentine, 1524, and the English, it is said, by virtue of a grant by the Pope of Rome, and through John Cabot and his son, Sebastian, both of them in the service of the English King Henry VII, 1497-98. To Edward, Earl of Clarendon, and his associates Charles II of England gave a charter in 1663—“excited by a laudable and pious zeal for the propagation of the Gospel.”

The Proprietors planted colonists on the Albemarle and the Cape Fear, North Carolina. Things did not go well and many of these people subsequently found their way to old Charles Town, which was established, not by English design, but through circumstances. Robert Sandford, “Secretary and Chiefe Register for the Lords Proprietors of their County of Clarendon,” had explored this coast in the summer of 1666, 2 and would have seen the site of Charles Town, but his Indian pilot confused his bearings “until it was too late.” Sandford however, renamed the River Kiawah the Ashley in honor of Ashley-Cooper, later the Earl of Shaftesbury, one of the Proprietors.

Sandford, off Edisto, near Charles Town, was sought by the Cassique, or Chief, of the Kiawah Indians and importuned to plant an English colony near the Kiawah village on the west bank of the Kiawah (Ashley) River. The Cassique, Sandford related, was known to the Clarendon colonists. Sandford agreed to investigate, but missed the entrance and chose to lose no further time by putting back. The Sandford report so impressed the Proprietors that they authorized the planting of a colony, not at Charles Town, but at Port Royal, to the south. Colonel William Sayle, soldier of fortune, was commissioned Governor when Sir John Yeamans, already Governor of the more northern colony, left the adventurers. Three ships were in the enterprise, but one of these was separated. The other two made land at present-day Bull’s Island in the spring of 1670. The Cassique of Kiawah was there and Governor Sayle was importuned to abandon Port Royal and bring his colonists to the Kiawah country.

Sayle, however, followed his instructions and proceeded to Port Royal, arriving in mid-April of 1670. The Cassique of Kiawah had told the colonists that the Indians were on the warpath and his story was confirmed. Carteret, who was in the “friggott” Carolina, flagship, says: “Wee weighed from Porte Royall and ran in between St. Hellena and Combohe (Combahee).” Here the first English election in Carolina was held, five men “to be of the Council.”

The sloop which had come with the Carolina was “despatched 3 to Keyawah to view that land soe much commended by the Casseeka,” and soon returned with “a report that ye land was much more fitt to plant than in St. Hellena which begott a question.... The Governour adhearing for Keyawah and most of us being of a temper to follow though we know noe reason for it, imitating ye rule of ye inconsiderate multitude, cryed out for Keyawah, yet some dissented from it being sure to make a new voyage, but difident of a better convenience, those that inclyned for Porte Royall were looked upon strangely, so thus wee came to Keyawah.”

So, it was the Cassique, or chief, of the Kiawahs, that was responsible for the choice of the site of old Charles Town. First the colonists named their settlement Albemarle Point, but in the fall of 1670 they renamed it Charles Town, in honor of their King, Charles II. Carolina they named for him also, but the French had previously called it Carolina for their King, Charles IX. However, there were no French in Carolina when the English colonists arrived; the French effort at colonization had ended in tragedy, a hundred years before.

No sooner were the colonists established at Albemarle Point (where the Seaboard Air Line Railroad touches the west shore of the Ashley) than they looked with favor on the peninsula between the Ashley and the Cooper (the Indians called this river the Etiwan), as much the more desirable for their town, and in 1680 the change was officially in force. The new town was facilitated by the voluntary action of Henry Hughes and of John Coming and “Affera, his Wife,” in surrendering land for the new town. John Culpeper was commissioned to plan it. “The Town is regularly 4 laid out into large and capacious streets,” said “T.A., Gent.,” clerk aboard H.M.S. Richmond, “in the year 1682.”

Charles Town on the peninsula prospered as a port and as the capital of the plantations. To ships in its commodious harbor came the things of the fields, the woods and the streams. Constantly new people were arriving and the outpost of civilization rapidly took on the appearance of European manners and customs, notwithstanding the incongruity of savages, red and black, and Indian traders in their bizarre garb. It was Charles Town under the Proprietors, Charlestown under the Royal Government, and Charleston since its incorporation in 1783.

This Carolina metropolis has had part in Indian, Spanish and French wars. It has had bold adventures with pirates. It was conspicuous in the Revolution and in the War for Southern Independence. It furnished men for the famous Palmetto Regiment in the Mexican War. The War of 1812 little affected it. Its men served in the Spanish-American War and the World War. It is said that from the tops of the highest buildings come under the eye more historic places than come under it from any other place in the United States, explaining the slogan, Charleston—America’s Most Historic City. It is in order to remind that William Allen White, in an address, said that “Charleston is the most civilized town in America,” and that William Howard Taft, then President of the United States, pronounced it, “the most convenient port to Panama.”

In Charleston survive buildings that were erected during the Proprietary Government, many buildings that were erected during the Royal Government. Survive scars of wars and storms and fires that raged in the long ago. Survive street 5 names that were bestowed when Charles Town was in its swaddling clothes. It is a far cry from old Charles Town, bounded on the south by Vanderhorst Creek (Water Street); on the west by earthworks and a moat (Meeting Street); on the north by earthworks (Cumberland Street), and on the east by the Cooper River. King, Queen and Princess Streets are reminiscent of the Royal Régime. St. Philip’s, St. Michael’s, St. Andrew’s, Berkeley, and St. James, Goose Creek, were of the Church of England, under the Bishop of London, albeit the present St. Philip’s was erected half a century after the Revolution, replacing the Proprietary building that was burned in 1835.

But this work is concerned, not with the history of Charleston, but with Landmarks of Charleston, and in the pages that follow are tales of prominent landmarks, places and buildings that are storied. Eminent Carolinian names pass in review. The greatness of the lustrous past is linked with the more convenient present. The Charles Town that was and the Charleston that is are brought before the reader. The author’s effort is to present the facts accurately.

Outstanding landmarks include Fort Sumter, Fort Moultrie, the Old Exchange Building, the Powder Magazine, the Rhett and Trott Houses for their antiquity, the Miles Brewton House as enemy headquarters in the Revolution and the War for Southern Independence.

6

Fort Sumter from the Air

An Incomparable Stroll

Would you, guest within the gates of Charleston, see things reminiscent of old Charles Town rubbing elbows with things of modern Charleston? Take this stroll, a little more than a mile, and you will be abundantly compensated.

Begin at the Mosque of Omar Temple of the Mystic Shrine, on the site of the Granville Bastion, southeastern edge of Charles Town in 1680. Proceed, southward, along East (or High) Battery, washed by the Cooper River. You behold the harbor declared by Admiral Dickins capable of accommodating the fleets of the world at one time. Seaward you see gallant Fort Sumter. To its left, Sullivan’s Island, on which is Fort Moultrie of Revolutionary fame; to its right, by the Quarantine Station, Charles Town’s first fort, Johnson, named for a Proprietary Governor. On the west side are some of Charleston’s most desirable residences. You reach South Battery.

Here you see the monument to the brave Confederate defenders of Fort Sumter, to face that famous fortress. Continue on the promenade which has inspired extravagant phrases. In the park you see the capstan from the battleship Maine, blown up in Havana harbor in February, 1898; 7 monuments to the defenders of Fort Moultrie in 1776, and to William Gilmore Simms, novelist, historian, editor. Across the park, at the foot of Church Street, you see the home of Colonel William Washington, Virginian, who achieved a lustrous record as a Revolutionary officer in South Carolina; across Church Street is the Villa Margharita, built as the home of Andrew Simonds, banker. At the foot of Meeting Street, you see a memorial fountain to the gallant Confederates of the first submarine.

Stay on the promenade and enjoy the sight of stately palmettos bordering a beautiful park in which majestic oaks are many. At the foot of King Street, you come to the Fort Sumter Hotel. This building includes the site of the landing stage used by Queen Victoria’s daughter, the Princess Louise, in 1883; first member of the English royal family to visit the capital of the former English colony and province. Go north in King Street. At No. 27 is the celebrated Miles Brewton House, used by the British as headquarters in the Revolution and by the Union commanders in the War for Southern Independence. Note the picturesque old coach house.

Turn east and proceed through Ladson Street. At the northwest corner of Ladson and Meeting Streets is the home of the last Royal Lieutenant Governor, William Bull, and across Meeting Street (No. 34) the home of the last Royal Governor, Lord William Campbell, who escaped through Vanderhorst Creek (now Water Street) to H.M.S. Tamar, carrying with him the Great Seal of the Province. Next to the Bull House is the home of the late General James Conner, distinguished Confederate officer, and eminent for his work during Reconstruction. At Water Street you come to a corner of old Charles Town.

8

Continue north in Meeting Street. At No. 51 is the home of Governor Robert Francis Withers Allston, some time a convent of the Sisters of Mercy, now the home of Francis J. Pelzer. At the southwest corner of Meeting and Tradd Streets is the First (Scotch) Presbyterian Church, organized in 1731, an offspring of the old White Meeting House. On the northwest corner is the old Branford (also called Horry) home, the portico over the street being less ancient. On the east side (No. 72) is the hall of the South Carolina Society, which also houses the St. Andrew’s Society, founded in 1729; in this building are tables and chairs used in the Secession convention. On the west side is the post office park, including the site of the old Charleston Club, and of the United States courthouse that collapsed in the earthquake of August 31, 1886. On the southwest corner of Meeting and Broad Streets is the United States post office, completed in 1896; this houses the United States court. On the northwest corner is the county Court House, on the site of the old State House, burned in 1788. Behind the Court House is the Daniel Blake double house, one of the first of its kind in the country.

On the southeast corner is St. Michael’s Church, on the site of the original English church, St. Philip’s. In its yard sleep illustrious Charlestonians, including James Louis Petigru, the epitaph on whose grave is famous. On the northeast corner is the City Hall, with its great municipal art gallery, including John Trumbull’s renowned portrait of General George Washington. This was the building of the United States Bank, on the site of the early market place. Behind and beside the City Hall, Washington Park, in the northwest corner of which is the country’s first fireproof building.

9

Proceed east in Broad Street. No. 73 is the site of Lee’s Hotel, known also as the Mansion House, “kept by a dignified and distinguished looking mulatto, once the most fashionable hotel in the city and probably the best kept and most expensive,” said William G. Whilden in his Reminiscences. Across the street (No. 62) is the Confederate Home which before the War for Southern Independence was the Carolina Hotel, a noted caravansary. At the northwest corner of Broad and Church Streets, is the Chamber of Commerce, oldest in the country, organized in 1773; this was the old South Carolina Bank building, later the home of the Charleston Library Society, which moved into modern quarters, elsewhere on this stroll. At the northeast corner is the Citizens and Southern Bank, on the site of Shepheard’s Tavern, birthplace of Ancient Free Masonry in America, Solomon’s Lodge, No. 1, having been chartered by the Grand Lodge of England in 1735, and birthplace also of the Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite of Free Masonry, 1801. A block to the eastward, at the foot of Broad Street, is the Old Exchange, as historic a building as there is in all America.

Northward on Church Street, at the southeast corner of Church and Queen, the only Huguenot church in America! Opposite, on the southwest corner, the restored Planters’ Hotel (1803), including the reproduction of Charleston’s first regular theater (1735), the company of players coming direct from England. North of Queen Street, on the west side, the reputed Pirates’ houses. St. Philip’s graveyard is divided by Church Street, running through the foundations of the building burned in 1835. The first St. Philip’s was on the site now occupied by St. Michael’s and the present St. Philip’s is the third. In the graveyards sleep, Edward Rutledge, Signer 10 of the Declaration of Independence; William Rhett, captor of the notorious pirate, Stede Bonnet, 1718; Christopher Gadsden, Revolutionary patriot; John Caldwell Calhoun, eminent statesman.

Proceed through the western yard. You are paralleling the northern boundary of old Charles Town, a matter of yards away. You are in the Gateway Walk of the Garden Club. Midway of the yard, you are behind the first brick house in Charles Town, that of Judge Nicholas Trott; it was standing in 1719. Next to the Trott House is Charles Town’s oldest building, the Powder Magazine, 1703, owned and used by the Colonial Dames of America. Into the yard of the Circular Church, cradle of Presbyterianism in Carolina. Illustrious dead are buried here. The newspaper building to the south is on the site of the South Carolina Institute Hall, in which the Ordinance of Secession was signed December 20, 1860, and in which, several months before, the famous Democratic convention of 1860 was held. You come to Meeting Street, the Circular Church as the White Meeting House giving its name. Down Meeting Street, at the southwestern corner of Queen, is the St. John Hotel, on the site of the old St. Mary's Hotel, opened in 1801; General Robert E. Lee and President Theodore Roosevelt were of the notables who have been guests of this house.

At Meeting Street you are at the western edge of old Charles Town. Cross the street and pass through the yard of the Gibbes Memorial Art Gallery, a section of the old Schenking Square. Thence into the yard, of the Charleston Library Society, dating to 1748, among the oldest in the land. You come now to King Street. Down the street on the east side of the next block is the Quaker burial ground and 11 site of the meeting houses that were burned. Cross King Street into the walk of the Unitarian Church, its building used by the British during their occupation in the Revolution for stables, and, to the north, the first Lutheran church, St. John’s. You come to Archdale Street, named for pious John Archdale, Quaker, Proprietor and Governor. Go southward to Queen Street, at the corner of Legare (it used to be Friend, reminiscent of the early Quakers in the colony) is the convent of Our Lady of Mercy, a community of consecrated Sisters, now more than a hundred years old. Opposite the convent, in Legare Street, is the Crafts public school, memorial to William Crafts.

On the left, at the corner of Broad Street, is the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, on the site of the Cathedral of St. Finbar and St. John, burned in 1861; here Bishop John M. England built the first St. Finbar’s on the site of the Vauxhall gardens. Go east in Broad Street. No. 119 (south side) is the residence of Irving Keith Heyward with one of Charleston’s finest formal gardens. Next door, to the east, is a property once occupied by Edward Rutledge.

On the north side of Broad Street, No. 118, is the site of St. Andrew’s Society hall in which President James Monroe and the Marquis de Lafayette were guests of the city, Monroe in 1819 and Lafayette in 1825; in which the Ordinance of Secession was adopted December 20, 1860. Next door, No. 116, is the former house of John Rutledge, “The Dictator,” later Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States; here President William Howard Taft was the guest of Robert Goodwyn Rhett. No. 114, once the home of Colonel Thomas Pinckney, is the residence of the Bishop of Charleston, the Most Reverend Emmet Walsh. No. 112 12 is the Ralph Izard house; the coach house in the yard is one of the most picturesque in Charleston. This neighborhood was in Mr. Hollybush’s farm, just outside of old Charles Town. No. 100 Broad Street was at one time the residence of James Louis Petigru.

You come again to the intersection of Broad and Meeting Streets and remember that here in 1876 occurred violent Reconstruction riots; that in the Revolution, years before, the statue of William Pitt was in the center and that a British shell struck off an arm. You who have followed me on this incomparable walk have seen things of Charles Town, Charlestown and Charleston. You have seen things reminiscent of early English and early French. You have seen the evolution of a British outpost in a savage land into what William Allen White has called “the most civilized town in America.”

13

Landmarks of Charleston

POWDER MAGAZINE, 23 Cumberland Street: In the early days of Charles Town this storehouse for ammunition was built of brick covered with “tabby.” It is known to have been in use in 1703. It continued as a storing place of gunpowder years after the town limits had been pushed northward of Cumberland Street. When the British were besieging Charlestown in 1780, a shell exploded near the magazine and attention was thus directed to its danger. It was abandoned as a magazine. Nowadays this ancient building is the property of the Charleston Society of the Colonial Dames of America. In it are many interesting and valuable relics. How this magazine escaped through the years is one of the mysteries.

NICHOLAS TROTT’S HOUSE, 25 Cumberland Street: Next door to the Powder Magazine is Charleston’s first brick house, standing in its old appearance until a few years ago when it was done over for business offices. It was the home of Nicholas Trott, one of the chief men of Charles Town. It is a large two-story building, its back to St. Philip’s western graveyard. Trott, born in England in 1663, came to Charles Town from the Bahamas about 1690. He was Attorney General in 1698, Speaker of the Assembly in 1700, 14 Councillor in 1703 and the Chief Judge after that. With the overthrow of the government of the Proprietors, Trott’s star waned. He revised and published Laws of South Carolina (two volumes, 1736) and Laws Relating to the Church and the Clergy (1721). He died in Charlestown in 1740. Dr. Shecut says that the Trott House was standing in 1719. “The great ability and legal attainments of Chief Justice Trott, who acted as Chief Justice in all for some fifteen or sixteen years,” Henry A. M. Smith wrote, drew all the business and litigation to it; his became practically the only court in the Province. The Proprietors sustained Trott when the people complained “and the response on the part of the people was to overthrow the Proprietary Government,” Judge Smith is quoted.

WILLIAM RHETT’S HOUSE, 58 Hasell Street: Wade Hampton, South Carolina hero of the Reconstruction period after the War for Southern Independence, acclaimed as the savior of his state, was born in the house wherein lived William Rhett, captor of Stede Bonnet, notorious pirate, and his fellows, who were hanged, in 1718. William Rhett was a great man in the early Carolina and Wade Hampton in the later. Rhett’s large square house was in excellent condition in 1722, says Joseph Johnson, M.D., in his Traditions of the Revolution. It is in good condition in this year, 1939. It is entered through a broad piazza on the west side and contains four large rooms on each floor. Colonel Rhett is remembered chiefly for his capture of the pirates, but other marks in his record are lustrous. He commanded the little fleet that in 1706 put down the harbor against a hostile French fleet under Le Feboure: the Frenchman 15 weighed his anchors and went to sea without offering a single shot. A few days later Rhett’s flotilla, a short distance up the coast, captured a French vessel; among his prisoners was the chief land officer, Arbouset. Rhett was born in London, September 4, 1666, and came to Charles Town in November of 1694; he died here in June of 1722. On his tomb in St. Philip’s western graveyard, it is chiseled that “he was a person that on all occasions promoted the public good of this colony and several times generously and successfully ventured in defense of the same.... A kind husband, a tender father, a faithful friend, a charitable neighbour.”

QUAKER GRAVEYARD, 138 King Street: Graves among the oldest in Carolina are in the yard of the old Quaker Meeting House property. The first Quaker house of worship was built on this site in 1694. John Archdale, Quaker, Proprietor and Governor, came to Charles Town in 1695, and attended services with his fellow Friends. The property is a parcel of the old Archdale Square, nowadays bounded by King, Queen, Meeting and Broad Streets. It was just outside the town in those early years. This building was blown up in July, 1837, to stop a fire. The rebuilt Meeting House was destroyed in the conflagration of 1861. Quakers came to Charles Town while it was across the Ashley River. A letter from Shaftesbury, dated June 9, 1675, said: “There come now in my dogger Jacob Waite and two or three other familys of those who are called Quakers. These are but the Harbingers of a greater number that intend to follow. ’Tis theire purpose to take up a whole colony for themselves and theire Friends here, they promised me to build a Town of 30 Houses. I have writ to the Gov’r and 16 Council about them and directed them to set them out 12,000 acres.” The Society of Friends owns this property, but there is now no meeting house in Charleston. The name of Governor Archdale is preserved in the street of that name, on which are the Unitarian and St. John’s Lutheran Churches.

THE GATEWAY WALK, from Church to Archdale: No visitors to Charleston should forego the pleasure of using the Gateway Walk of the Garden Club. A bronze plate on a gate at the Charleston Library says:

Through hand-wrought gates alluring paths

Lead on to pleasant places,

Where ghosts of long-forgotten things

Have left elusive traces.

This verse speaks eloquently for it. East to west, the walk is through St. Philip’s graveyard, through the yard of the Circular Congregational Church, thence across Meeting Street, through the yard of the Gibbes Memorial Art Gallery, through that of the Charleston Library Society, across King Street, through the yards of the Unitarian and St. John’s Lutheran Churches. There are two graceful wrought-iron gateways between the Gallery and the Library which formerly had place at the home of William Aiken, King and Ann Streets, used nowadays by the Southern Railway System for offices. Mr. Aiken was president of the South Carolina Canal and Railroad Company from 1828 to 1831. Aiken, near Augusta, popular winter resort, was named in his honor. The railroad company a hundred years ago built the world’s longest steam railroad. In the large yard behind the Gibbes 17 Gallery is an attractive pool with growing water plants. To describe the Gateway Walk at length would operate to rob a visitor of the tranquil pleasure of moving through it leisurely. In the yards of St. Philip’s and the Circular Church are graves of early citizens of Charles Town. It is enough to say that the Garden Club has achieved a unique and worthwhile project. Elsewhere in this book is found information of the six properties traversed by the walk.

ST. ANDREWS HALL SITE, 118 Broad Street: The St. Andrew’s Society of Charleston was organized by Scots in 1729. It is Charleston’s oldest benevolent society, active and flourishing into this season. Its hall was built in 1814 and here the Marquis de Lafayette was entertained in March, 1825. The distinguished Frenchman was the guest of the city and was showered with attentions. Here he met his friend, Colonel Francis K. Huger, who some years before had engaged in the frustrated scheme of aiding Lafayette to escape from an Austrian prison. Here on Tuesday, March 15, 1825, he “received the salutations of the reverend clergy, the officers of the militia, judges and gentlemen of the Bar, and many citizens, after which he visited Generals Charles C. and Thomas Pinckney, Mrs. Shaw, the daughter of General Greene, and Mrs. Washington, relict of the late General William Washington.” In this hall was passed the Ordinance of Secession December 20, 1860 (it was signed in the Institute Hall, however). It was among the many buildings razed by the flames in 1861. The St. Andrew’s Society is housed in these seasons with the South Carolina Society, certain of the chairs and tables used in the Secession convention being preserved. In the years before the War for Southern Independence St. Andrew’s Hall was the scene of many brilliant social entertainments, including balls of that eminent Charleston order, the Saint Cecilia Society, which had its beginning as a musical society, presenting concerts.

18

Looking North on Meeting Street
Right Middleground, Portico of South Carolina Hall; Background, St. Michael’s Church

19

JOHN STUART’S HOUSE, 104 Tradd Street: John Stuart, born in England in 1700, came through Charlestown with General James Oglethorpe, founder of Georgia, in 1733. Thirty years later he was appointed the British general agent for Indian affairs in the South. Captured by the Cherokees, he was saved by Attakullakulla (the Little Carpenter). With the breaking of the Revolution he engaged to incite Cherokees, Chickasaws and Creeks (Muscogees) to war against the whites. The Indian outbreak was to coincide with Sir Peter Parker’s attack on Charlestown in the spring of 1776. It was foiled by alert Kentucky settlers. His plot being exposed Colonel Stuart fled to Florida, thence to England where he died in 1779. His property was confiscated by the independent government. To escape the British, it is related that General Francis Marion leaped from a window. His coattails caught and his liberty was in peril. (That’s the story, but the house from which Marion fled is at the northeast corner of Legare and Tradd.) Certain of the interior of this house has been reset up in Minneapolis which has broadcast its pride in the accession.

SITE OF FORT JOHNSON, James Island: The first fortification erected for the defense of old Charles Town was at the northeast end of James Island, within the present-day Quarantine reservation. It was devised to meet the threatened invasion by the French under Le Feboure and was 20 named Fort Johnson in honor of the then Governor, Sir Nathaniel Johnson. In 1759 a second fort of tabby (or tapia) was built on the site and this was the Fort Johnson of the Revolution—“in plan triangular, with salients bastioned and priestcapped, the gorge closed, the gate protected by an earthwork, a defensible sea wall of tapia extended the fortification to the west and southwest.” In 1765 stamped paper was transferred from a British sloop-of-war and stored in Fort Johnson while in Charlestown excitement prevailed, resulting in seizure of the stamped paper by three companies of volunteers under Captains Marion, Pinckney and Elliott. The British garrison was placed under guard and preparations made to resist any attack from the sloop-of-war. At this time was displayed the first form of the South Carolina State flag—a blue field with three white crescents. The naval commander agreed to carry the stamped paper from Charlestown and the incident passed off without clash at arms. This was ten years before the Battle of Concord. In 1775, the spirit of liberty gaining strength, Fort Johnson was again seized by order of the Council of Safety, as a precaution against the last of the Royal Governors, Lord William Campbell, British troops being expected. In November of this year (1775) three shots were fired from Fort Johnson on the British sloops-of-war Tamar and Cherokee, which were engaged in blocking Hog Island Channel. June 28, 1776, Fort Johnson was commanded by Colonel Christopher Gadsden, but had no opportunity of engaging Sir Peter Parker’s fleet, which was repulsed by soldiers under Colonel William Moultrie at Fort Sullivan, known afterward and now as Fort Moultrie, on Sullivan’s Island. In 1780 Sir Henry Clinton reported Fort Johnson “destroyed.” In 1793 the third work at this 21 site was built, but in 1800 a tropical storm so damaged it that it was abandoned, being restored in the War of 1812. At the site of Fort Johnson the Confederate forces defending Charleston located a mortar battery from which to bombard Fort Sumter. It now became “an extensive entrenched camp of considerable strength and capacity.” The Confederates evacuated this fort February 17, 1865, and the works were allowed to fall into decay. Latterly there has been an earnest effort at restoration.

FORT MOULTRIE, Sullivan’s Island: A glorious day in the annals of South Carolina was the twenty-eighth of June, 1776. A partially built fort of palmetto logs repulsed the proud British fleet under Sir Peter Parker. Above this rude fort floated a South Carolina flag with a blue field in which was one crescent and the word LIBERTY. It was this flag that Sergeant Jasper rescued, his gallant deed commemorating his name. The first government of any of the thirteen American colonies was established at Charlestown, March, 1776, with John Rutledge as president, Henry Laurens as vice-president and William Henry Drayton as chief justice. Against Colonel William Moultrie’s rude fort on that June day in 1776 was pitted a trained fleet of eleven armed vessels carrying 270 guns. Moultrie’s garrison comprised 435 men. While Moultrie was engaged with Sir Peter Parker, Colonel William Thomson with 800 men and two cannons prevented Sir Henry Clinton from landing his soldiery. In the Battle of Fort Moultrie the defenders suffered only thirty-seven casualties while the fleet suffered more than 200, and the loss of a frigate. It was from Fort Moultrie that Major Robert Anderson on the night of December 26, 1860, removed his Union 22 garrison into Fort Sumter. The Confederates used Fort Moultrie against the invading Union forces until Fort Sumter was abandoned by the South’s defenders. Before Anderson left Moultrie, he had spiked the guns and burned their carriages. Fort Moultrie helped make Morris Island an unhappy place for Union troops under General Gilmore. At the entrance to the old fort is the grave of Osceola, chief of the Seminoles, who was brought a captive after the war in Florida a hundred years ago. In these years the fort gives name to a reservation which is the headquarters of the Eighth Infantry, a small detail of Coast Artillerymen being on duty with the coast defense guns.

FORT SUMTER, at the Entrance to the Harbor: Facing the open sea stands gallant Fort Sumter. No fortress in all America awakens greater memories. It is a shining emblem of Secession, enduring monument to the incomparable defense of Charleston by the Confederates. The bravest of the brave served within this shell-torn fortress, withstanding the siege of Union land and sea forces. Sumter is not alone a proud fortress, but a landmark invested with a wealth of patriotic sentiment. It is stirring American drama. “In the annals of the Federal army and navy, there is no exploit comparable to the defense of Charleston harbor. It would not be easy to match it in the records of European warfare”—the Rev. John Johnson, D.D., quoted an English historian. In skeleton, Fort Sumter’s great story includes: April 7, 1863, it had part in the repulse of the United States armored squadron after a severe engagement. In August it “suffered its first great bombardment of sixteen days, ending in the demolition and silencing of the fort, chiefly by land 23 batteries of Morris Island.” Confederates effected immediate repairs. While these were making, the defenders of Sumter beat off a night attack by small boats. Then came the “second and third great bombardments, one of forty-one days, and the other, and last, of sixty days and nights continuously, both being borne without any thought of failure or surrender.” The quotations are from an article by Dr. Johnson in The News and Courier. In all, the siege lasted until Charleston was evacuated February 17-18, 1865, “after 567 days of continuous military and naval operations.” The famous fortress of Sumter, named for the Revolutionary hero, General Thomas Sumter, the “Game Cock,” was built upon a shoal, the Secretary of War approving the plans in December, 1828. It is about a mile southwest of Fort Moultrie, Sullivan’s Island, and the same distance northeast of Fort Johnson, James Island. It was nearing completion when on the night of December 26, 1860, Major Robert Anderson removed the Union garrison of Fort Moultrie to it. On the twelfth and thirteenth of April, 1861, it was bombarded by the Confederates for about thirty hours, Major Anderson surrendering. He evacuated the following day, embarking his men for the north. The Confederates at once put the fortress in order for defense. There had been no casualties on either side. Lieutenant Colonel R. S. Ripley was the first Confederate commander of Fort Sumter and Major Thomas A. Huguenin the last, the Confederate occupation extending from April 14, 1861, to February 17, 1865. Fort Sumter nowadays is without a garrison. It is part of the defenses of Charleston. A military caretaker lives within the battle-scarred walls. Modern coast defense guns are mounted. As a grim sentinel, Sumter still faces the open seas.

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SITE OF FIRST THEATER, 43 Queen Street: Plays were performed in Charles Town in 1703, according to Sonneck. However, the first regular theater was the Play House in Dock (now Queen) Street. Here in the winter of 1735, a company, “direct from England,” presented its repertory. Members of Solomon’s Lodge of the Ancient Free Masons, the oldest Masonic lodge in the United States, attended, in a body, the performance of “The Recruiting Officer” May 28, 1737. The Federal government has reproduced this theater; it was reopened officially November 26, 1937.

ST. PHILIP’S CHURCH, 144 Church Street: St. Philip’s is the oldest Protestant Episcopal congregation south of Virginia. The first edifice was built on the site now occupied by St. Michael’s (southeast corner of Meeting and Broad Streets). The second and third were built at the present site. The first St. Philip’s was erected in 1681-82. It was of wood, but little is known of it. Early maps designate it as the English Church. The second St. Philip’s was opened for divine worship Easter Sunday, 1723. It faced the west and its steeple was eighty feet high. John Wesley, founder of Methodism, preached in this church two hundred years ago. The first Bishop of the Episcopal Diocese of South Carolina was the Right Reverend Robert Smith, rector of St. Philip’s. This edifice was known far and wide for its great beauty. It was burned February 15, 1835. The third St. Philip’s was used for service May 3, 1838. Its chimes, cast into Confederate cannon, have never been replaced. During twenty-two years an important mariners’ light glowed in the steeple, the other light of this range having been on historic Fort Sumter. The light above St. Philip’s was discontinued when the main channel was changed about twenty years ago. St. Philip’s is known as the Westminster of the South as so many distinguished men of early years are in its graveyards, including Edward Rutledge, Signer of the Declaration of Independence; John C. Calhoun, often appraised South Carolina’s greatest statesman; William Rhett, captor of Stede Bonnet and his associate pirates. During the War for Southern Independence Calhoun’s body was removed for safekeeping, but it was later reinterred. The story of St. Philip’s is coeval with the story of Charleston on this peninsula. Its communion plate is of uncommon interest and value, including pieces presented by William Rhett and a paten of unquestioned antiquity. The present edifice faces the east. The curve in Church Street passes through the site of the body of the edifice that was burned in 1835. President George Washington attended services in the second St. Philip’s May 8, 1791, and President James Monroe May 2, 1819. The present St. Philip’s is accounted one of the beautiful churches of America.

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St. Philip’s Episcopal Church

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CRADLE OF PRESBYTERIANISM, 138 Meeting Street: The congregation of the Circular Church dates to 1681. The small wooden building in the erection of which Landgrave Joseph Blake was influential was known as the White Meeting House and was replaced in 1804 by a brick edifice circular in form, that was burned in 1861. It was this church that gave name to Meeting Street. From this congregation sprang two other congregations, the First (Scotch) Presbyterian and the Unitarian. Some of the earliest graves in Charles Town are in the Circular Churchyard. David Ramsay, physician, statesman and historian, is buried in it. Some of the early Huguenots 27 (French Protestants) are also buried in it. The chapel in the rear of the yard was built after the fire of 1861. The present edifice is without a great portico over the street.

HUGUENOT CHURCH, 136 Church Street: The only Huguenot Church in America! This is the proud and unique distinction of the French Protestant Church in Charleston. Its congregation holds to the old Huguenot litany. It dates to 1681. The first recognized and regular pastor of the French Church was the Reverend Elias Prioleau, who came with the “great Huguenot immigration” about 1687; he died in 1699. Alluding to the Huguenots of Charles Town Bancroft said: “Their Church was in Charles Town and thither every Lord’s Day, gathering from their plantations upon the banks of the Cooper, and taking advantage of the ebb and flow of the tide, they might all regularly be seen, the parents with their children, whom no bigot could now wrest from them, making their way in light skiffs through scenes so tranquil, that silence was broken only by the rippling of oars and the hum of the flourishing village at the confluence of the rivers.” The first Huguenot Church was burned in 1740. The second church was also burned, in 1797. It was at once rebuilt and in 1845 it was remodeled to the form it now presents. “The church edifice is of great architectural beauty, being of pure Gothic, and its walls are adorned with mural tablets, commemorating the names and memories of the first Huguenot emigrants to Carolina.” It is the boast of this congregation that it has had a church on the same site for more years than has any other Charleston congregation. For more than one hundred and fifty years the services were in the French language.

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FIRST BAPTIST CHURCH, 61 Church Street: When Charles Town on the peninsula was about three years old the first congregation of Baptists was formed. Some of these Baptists came from New England, with the Reverend William Screven, their pastor, and others came from England. Old records show that for several years the Baptists worshipped in the home of Mrs. William Chapman. Lady Blake, and her mother, Lady Axtell, were both Baptists and members of this congregation; their official rank lent strength to the church. William Elliott, a member, gave the site of the First Baptist Church in 1699. A wooden building was erected. The present building was on the site before 1826 and of it Mills says it showed “the best specimen of correct taste in architecture of the modern buildings in the city.” There are many old graves in its yard.

SCOTCH PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, 53 Meeting Street: Sprung from the White Meeting House, the First (Scotch) Presbyterian Church dates to 1731. The Reverend Hugh Stewart, a native Scot, was its first pastor. The present edifice was dedicated in 1814. It was severely damaged in the earthquake of August 31, 1886, but fully restored. It has one of the finest auditoriums in the country. When the Marquis of Lorne (later the Duke of Argyle) and his wife, the Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria, were in Charleston in January, 1883, they visited the Scotch Church to inspect a memorial tablet to their cousin, Lady Anne Murray. The Duke of Sutherland also made a trip to Charleston expressly to see it. May 2, 1819, President James Monroe attended service in the Scotch Church, hearing a sermon by the Reverend Mr. Reid, the pastor. This 29 church celebrated its bicentennial in March, 1931. During 100 years it has had three pastors—the Reverend John Forrest, D.D., forty-seven years, the Reverend W. Taliaferro Thompson, D.D., twenty years and the Reverend Alexander Sprunt, D.D., thirty-three years. Prominent Charlestonians sleep the sleep eternal in its yard.

TRINITY METHODIST CHURCH, 273 Meeting Street: As its congregation springs from the old Cumberland Church, the first Methodist group in Charleston (1786), Trinity may be called Charleston’s oldest Methodist congregation, but the building it now occupies was recently acquired from the Westminster Presbyterian Church (which combined the abandoned Third Presbyterian in Archdale Street and the Glebe Street Presbyterian Church). Through years Trinity Church was at 57 Hasell Street. Here the first church was erected before 1813. For a short time the church was used by an Episcopal congregation. The story goes that some of the congregation were not agreeable to occupancy by Episcopalians and sought legal counsel. They were informed that possession was “nine points in the law.” So, after an Episcopalian service, the Methodist brothers and sisters, when the congregation was dismissed, locked the doors from the inside, fastened the windows and mounted guard within the edifice, women assisting, until the case was returned in their favor. During this peaceful siege, a lad was born in the building; he years later became a bishop of the church. The Methodist church was planted in Charleston when Bishop Asbury and his associates came here in 1785. The first church building was erected in Cumberland Street in 1787, and within it the first Methodist Conference in South Carolina was held the 30 same year. This building was destroyed in the fire of 1861. John and Charles Wesley had visited Charlestown in 1736. John Wesley preached in St. Philip’s Episcopal Church in 1737. The Wesleys came with General James Oglethorpe’s Georgia colonists. Charles Wesley was the general’s secretary and John Wesley was to be a missionary among the Indians.

ST. JOHN’S LUTHERAN CHURCH, 10 Archdale Street: The Lutheran congregation of St. John’s was organized in 1757 with the Reverend John George Fredichs as pastor. Lacking a building of their own the Lutherans used the French Huguenot Church. June 24, 1764, the first St. John’s was dedicated. The present brick building was dedicated January 18, 1818, the Reverend Dr. John Bachman, friend and associate of J. J. Audubon, the celebrated naturalist, being the pastor. This congregation was influential in the organization of Newberry College and the Lutheran Theological Seminary in South Carolina. Prominent persons of German origin or descent are buried in the yard. But the Lutheran story goes back to March, 1734. In his Sketch of St. John’s, the Reverend E. T. Horn says: “In March, 1734, while the ship containing the exiled Salzburgers lay off the harbor of Charleston, Governor Oglethorpe brought their Commissary, the Baron von Reck, and their pastor, the Reverend John Martin Bolzius, with him to the city. Here they found a few Germans, firm in their attachment to the Lutheran faith, and hungering and thirsting for the Holy Supper. In May, therefore, Bolzius was glad to accompany von Reck as far as Charleston, that he might minister to this little company, and on Sunday, May 26th, 1754, at five o’clock in the morning, most probably in the inn where Bolzius was stopping, he administered the Holy Communion to those whom on the day before he had examined and absolved according to the usages of the Lutheran Church.”

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William Rhett House, 58 Hasell Street

The Izard Houses; Nearer, Home of Bishop of Charleston; Other is the Older—110 and 114 Brand Street

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UNITARIAN CHURCH, 6 Archdale Street: Just before the American Revolution, the Circular Church on Meeting Street, cradle of Presbyterianism in Charles Town, found it necessary to use an additional building. Thus another church with another pastor was established in Archdale Street. One of the pastors espoused Unitarianism and by amicable agreement the part of the congregation following his teachings took over the Archdale Street church. While the British occupied Charlestown during the Revolution, they stabled horses in this edifice. The present church building was dedicated in April of 1854, and is much praised for its architecture. The ceiling of the nave is peculiarly attractive. The pastor of this Unitarian congregation, the only one in Charleston, was the Reverend Samuel Gilman, author of the famous college song, “Fair Harvard,” and in his memory Harvard alumni arranged the Samuel Gilman Memorial Room in the church tower; the ceremony was performed April 16, 1916.

ST. MARY’S CATHOLIC CHURCH, 79 Hasell Street: Mother parish of the Roman Catholic Church in North and South Carolina and Georgia, St. Mary’s congregation was organized in 1794, and in 1798 bought a frame building from a Protestant congregation. In 1836 this was burned and on the site the present fine brick edifice was erected being completed in 1838. In the late 1890’s the interior was 33 improved. Memorial stained-glass windows were emplaced. Of its interesting graveyard Bishop John M. England who came to Charleston in 1820 (finding two Catholic churches occupied and two priests doing duty) wrote: “The cemetery of this church which is now in the center of the city affords in the inscriptions of its monuments the evidence of the Catholicity of those whose ashes it contains. You may find the American and the European side by side.... The family of the Count de Grasse, who commanded the fleets of France near the Commodore of the United States and his partner, sleep in the hope of being resuscitated by the same trumpet.” According to David Ramsay, “prior to the American Revolution in 1776, there were very few Roman Catholics in Charleston, and these had no ministry, but of all other countries none has furnished the Province with so many inhabitants as Ireland.” About 1786 a vessel bound for South America, having an Italian priest aboard, put into Charleston. This priest celebrated mass for a congregation of about twelve persons. It was “the first Mass celebrated in Charleston and may be regarded as the introduction of the Catholic religion to the States of North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia which afterward constituted the See of Charleston.” The history of St. Mary’s is coeval with the history of the Roman Catholic religion in the Southeast, excluding the Florida possessions of the Spanish.

ST. JAMES, GOOSE CREEK, off the Coastal Highway: The British Royal Arms still stand in South Carolina! The British yoke was thrown off one hundred and sixty years ago, but in St. James Church, Goose Creek, sixteen miles from 34 the city hall of Charleston the Royal Arms have never come down! The ancient edifice stands in a tranquil woodland, quite near The Oaks, home of Arthur Middleton in early years. At the foot of the altar is a tomb with this inscription: “Here lyeth the body of the Reverend Francis Le Jau, Doctor in Divinity, of Trinity College, Dublin, who came to this Province October, 1706, and was one of the first missionaries sent by the honourable society to this Province, and was the first Rector of St. James, Goose Creek, Obijt. 15th September, 1717, ætat 52, to whose memory this stone is fixed by his only Son, Francis Le Jau.” In the records left by Dr. Le Jau is mentioned that he christened Indians. Four acres for the old parsonage were the gift of Arthur Middleton, and another pioneer gave the Glebe of one hundred acres. The cherubs in stucco over each of the keystones are famous and so is the pelican feeding her young, over the west door. Interesting memorial tablets have places. In the present day this picturesque and historic church is easily reached by automobile. Each year at Easter divine services are held in the church, the congregation invariably overflowing the building. The original church was built soon after Dr. Le Jau’s arrival.

ST. ANDREW’S, BERKELEY, on the Ashley River Road: The parish of St. Andrew’s, Berkeley (the district about Charles Town was Berkeley in olden times), was founded in 1706 and a simple brick building erected. Seventeen years later this was enlarged, taking the form of a cross. The gallery was intended for non-pewholders and was later set aside for negroes. Destroyed by fire it was rebuilt in 1764 and is one of the few rural churches that has survived the 35 Revolution and the War for Southern Independence. St. Andrew’s was one of ten parishes authorized by act of the Assembly in 1706 regulating religious worship in accordance with the forms of the Church of England. In quite recent years a question relative to the jurisdiction of the Bishop of London was raised! St. Andrew’s had its genesis when the colony had a population of 9,000, “of whom 5,000 were Negro and Indian slaves.”

ASHLEY RIVER ROAD, Leading to Famous Gardens: St. Andrew’s Church is but one of many interesting and historic places on the Ashley River Road. Two miles from the Ashley River Bridge the road passes near the site of the original Charles Town in South Carolina and three miles farther is the Ashley Hall plantation of the Bull family, distinguished in provincial and colonial periods. It was on the Bull place that Attakullakulla, a chief of the Cherokee Indians, signed a treaty of peace in the 1760’s after his tribe had been severely humbled by the whites. Just across the highway were the lovely Magwood Gardens, now the property of a granddaughter of President Abraham Lincoln. Here the highway passes through a grove of majestic live oaks festooned with Spanish moss. Seven miles from the bridge one passes St. Andrew’s Church and a short distance farther through old Fort Bull, the moat about which has been filled. Next, on the right, is the entrance to Drayton Hall, then Magnolia Gardens, Runnymede, home of John Julius Pringle, Speaker of the House of the Assembly in 1787, and later the property of Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, of the famous Pinckney family; Middleton Place (gardens) where is buried Arthur Middleton, Signer of the Declaration of Independence; the seat of the old Wragg barony; the Ashley River is crossed at Bacon’s Bridge near which stands an ancient oak beneath the spreading boughs of which General Francis Marion is alleged to have entertained a British officer (it is a pretty legend, but its site is severally located). Half a mile beyond the bridge is the road leading down to the ruins of old Dorchester, established in 1696 by colonists from Dorchester, Massachusetts, led by the Reverend Joseph Lord. In this year ruins of fort and churches are mute reminders of a brave village in a primeval wilderness infested with savage Indians. From Bacon’s Bridge the distance to Summerville is five miles. It is a drive every visitor to this section should follow. In the season, the Middleton Place and Magnolia Gardens are open to visitors.

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Foreground, Unitarian Church; Background, St. John’s Lutheran Church

Huguenot Church. Only One in America

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CASTLE PINCKNEY, in Charleston Harbor: Stand on the incomparable Battery and look seaward. Fort Sumter is in plain view, of course, but nearer the gaze is Castle Pinckney, holding the status nowadays of a government monument. It is to be reached only by boat. The fort at the edge of the sand bank known as Shute’s Folly was built after the Revolution, in 1797-1804. Later, it was enlarged. In the War for Southern Independence, it lacked opportunity to contribute materially to the defense of Charleston. Really there is more legend than history about Castle Pinckney, but long it has been a well-known landmark. The government used it as a depot for aids for navigation until the depot was established at the foot of Tradd Street, on the Ashley River, site of the old Chisolm’s rice mill. An excuse for including it among Landmarks of Charleston is that many strangers 38 promenading on the High Battery wish to know what Castle Pinckney is.

ST. MICHAEL’S CHURCH, 78 Meeting Street: Five times have the bells of St. Michael’s crossed the Atlantic ocean. They came from England in 1764 and returned there after the British evacuated the town in 1784. Repurchased for Charleston, they came back to their steeple. During the War for Southern Independence they were taken for safekeeping to Columbia and in the burning of that town charged to General William Tecumseh Sherman (who had been a social favorite in Charleston before the war) they were so damaged that they were shipped to England. There they were recast in the original molds. Brought back they are still in the steeple, pealing on occasions. When Charles Town on the peninsula was laid out, a lot was designed for the English church, St. Philip’s. A wooden building was erected. This being outgrown a brick church was built on Church Street, on the present site of St. Philip’s. By act of the Assembly, June, 1751, Charlestown was divided into two parishes; the lower, St. Michael’s, and the upper, St. Philip’s. February 17, 1752, the corner stone was laid with much ceremony, the South Carolina Gazette carrying an account. The reputed successor of Sir Christopher Wrenn was the architect and the edifice is declared to resemble St. Martin’s-in-the-Field, London, near Trafalgar Square. From the pavement to the ball of the steeple is 182 feet. During the War for Southern Independence, the steeple, and that of St. Philip’s, offered shining marks for the Union artillerists. Cannon balls struck the church, but not with serious results. Heavy damage was done by the earthquake of August 31, 1886. The old clock in the 39 steeple, with four dials, began the keeping of Charlestown time in 1764. President George Washington and the Marquis de Lafayette have worshipped in St. Michael’s. In the taxed tea excitement of 1774, the assistant rector of St. Michael’s preached a sermon that aroused his congregation and he received his walking papers. In the yard of this church are illustrious dead, including James Louis Petigru, eminent South Carolina lawyer, an opponent of Nullification in the 1830’s and of Secession in 1860; however, when his state had seceded, Mr. Petigru cast his fortune with the Confederacy. The incumbent Bishop of South Carolina, the Right Reverend Albert S. Thomas was rector of St. Michael’s when he was elected to this high office.

CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST, 122 Broad Street: John Morica England, first Bishop of Charleston, arrived in Charleston December 30, 1820, and the Cathedral of St. Finbar was dedicated by him a year later. It was a plain frame structure. Thirty years it stood. Then it was razed for the building of the St. John and St. Finbar Cathedral, burned in 1861; it was similar in design to the present Cathedral of St. John the Baptist on the same site, the northeast corner of Broad and Legare Streets. This handsome Gothic edifice of brown stone was begun late in 1888 by the Right Reverend Henry Pinckney Northrop, Bishop of Charleston. April 14, 1907, it was consecrated, Cardinal Gibbons being one of the celebrants. The site is that of the Vauxhall Gardens. Between December, 1861, and the occupancy of the new cathedral, the congregation worshipped in the pro-cathedral in Queen Street, built by the Right Reverend Patrick Nielsen Lynch, then Bishop of Charleston. St. John the Baptist’s is 200 feet 40 long from the entrance to the rear of the vestry, the nave being 150 feet long by eighty feet wide; from the floor to the top of clerestory is sixty feet. The interior is beautifully decorated and contains fine paintings and stained-glass windows. To the north of the Cathedral is the Convent of Our Lady of Mercy. Graves of bishops are under the cathedral. The edifice is one of Charleston’s cardinal show places.

TRUMBULL’S WASHINGTON, in Charleston City Hall: One of the most famous and valuable portraits of General George Washington hangs in the City Hall, northeast corner of Meeting and Broad Streets. It was done by John Trumbull on the order of the City Council in honor of President Washington’s visit in 1791. It is reputed to be worth a million dollars! Art connoisseurs have come long distances to inspect this great portrait. Washington is shown full length, with his horse near him. While this is Charleston’s most valuable painting, there are other fine paintings in the Municipal Gallery, including President James Monroe, commemorating his visit in 1819, by Samuel F. B. Morse (inventor of the telegraph); the damage done by a Union shell in the 1860’s does not show; President Andrew Jackson, in uniform after the Battle of New Orleans, by Vanderlyn, student under the celebrated Gilbert Stuart; General Zachary Taylor, with spyglass in hand in Mexico, by Beard; John Caldwell Calhoun, eminent statesman, addressing the United States senate, by Healy; General William Moultrie, defender of Fort Moultrie against Sir Peter Parker’s British fleet in 1776, by Fraser; Marquis de Lafayette, miniature, by Fraser, commemorating the Frenchman’s visit in 1825; General Francis Marion, the “Swamp Fox,” in Revolutionary uniform, 41 by John Stolle (here the famous coonskin cap is replaced by a brigadier’s hat, by order of William A. Courtenay, then Mayor); Queen Anne, of England, by Sir Godfrey Kneller, a fragment of the original cherished as a relic; Joel Roberts Poinsett, statesman, by Jarvis; William Campbell Preston, statesman, by Jarvis; General and Governor Wade Hampton, the hero of Reconstruction, by Prescott; General P. G. T. Beauregard, Confederate Chieftain, by Carter; General Thomas A. Huguenin, the last Confederate commander of Fort Sumter; statuary busts of James Louis Petigru, Robert Young Hayne, Christopher Gustavus Memminger, Robert Fulton, and others. An informing sketch of this gallery by Joseph C. Barbot, Clerk of Council, is recommended. In Colonial years the site of the City Hall was the town’s market place. On it the United States Bank was housed about 1802 and this building became the City Hall. It is related that the money for the purchase came from the sale of the Exchange to the United States government. The interior has been rearranged.

THE OLD EXCHANGE, East End of Broad Street: From the standpoint of history, this building is incomparably the most interesting in South Carolina and one of the most interesting in America, the Rev. William Way, D.D., told the Rebecca Motte Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution, whose property it is by gift of the United States. When Charles Town was laid out in 1680 this site was the Court of Guards, the place of arms for the early colonists. Here were imprisoned Stede Bonnet and other pirates in 1718 when South Carolina was putting down piracy after its previous years of friendship and fraternizing. The Exchange 42 and Custom House was built in 1767 at a cost of 44,016 pounds. Most of the material was brought from England in sailing vessels. The date of completion was 1771. Taxed tea from England was stored in the Exchange in 1774 and citizens prevented its sale. A second cargo, arriving November 3, 1774, was dumped by merchants of Charlestown into the Cooper River. In July, 1774, delegates to the Provincial Congress gathered in this building and set up the first independent government established in America; the congress also elected delegates to the General Congress meeting in Philadelphia. Patriotic men and women of Charlestown were incarcerated in the Exchange by the British during the Revolution; it was from the Exchange that the martyr Colonel Isaac Hayne was led to his execution in 1781. President George Washington was entertained in the building, Charles Fraser writing in his Reminiscences: “Amidst every recollection that I have of that most imposing occasion, the most prominent is the person of that great man as he stood upon the steps of the Exchange uncovered, amidst the enthusiastic acclamation of the citizens.” Saturday, May 7, 1791, General Washington was guest of honor at a “sumptuous entertainment” given by the merchants of Charleston in the Exchange. During the War of 1812 patriotic meetings were held in the Exchange. In 1818 the city of Charleston sold the Exchange to the United States government for the sum of $60,000 and a week later the city government paid the sum of $60,000 for the building of the United States Bank, to be converted into the City Hall. The following year President James Monroe was in the Exchange. The federal government used the building for a customhouse and post office, the customhouse transferring to its own building after the War for Southern Independence and the post office to its present home in 1896. In the earthquake of 1886, the cupola designed by the artist Fraser was so badly damaged that it was removed. For years the building has been headquarters for the Sixth lighthouse district; these offices continue in it although the government has presented the historic building to the Daughters of the American Revolution in and of the State of South Carolina as an historical memorial, to be occupied by the Rebecca Motte Chapter; this was effective in March of 1913. When the United States entered the World War the Exchange by unanimous vote of the D.A.R. was tendered the Federal government which it used to the end of the conflict. On the centennial of George Washington’s death a handsome bronze tablet on the west side of the Exchange was unveiled. There is no question that this ante-Revolutionary building is one of Charleston’s greatest landmarks.

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First (Scotch) Presbyterian Church

Bethel Methodist Church

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SITE OF INSTITUTE HALL, 134 Meeting Street: South Carolina declared itself free and independent, seceding from the United States, December 20, 1860. This bold act was taken in the hall of the South Carolina Institute. The Ordinance of Secession had been adopted in the hall of the St. Andrew’s Society, 118 Broad Street, but the delegates came to the Institute Hall because of its greater capacity; the wish was to accommodate as many as possible of the thousands who hoped to see the ordinance signed. With the great hall crowded to suffocation, after all the signatures had been affixed, President Jamison advanced to the front of the rostrum and announced, that South Carolina was an independent sovereignty, free of the United States. And the War for Southern Independence was nascent. In this hall several 45 months before had been held the famous Democratic National Convention that adjourned without decision with respect to candidates for President and Vice President. On the site are published The News and Courier, one of the oldest daily newspapers in the United States, founded in 1803, with its roots going back to 1786, and the Charleston Evening Post. They carry on the traditions of the South.

CONFEDERATE MUSEUM, at the Head of the Market: Valuable relics of the Confederacy are preserved in their hall at the head of Market Street, at Meeting Street, by the Charleston Chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy. A gun on the porch was fashioned from Swedish wrought iron from one of the first locomotives operated by the South Carolina Railroad, the world’s oldest long-distance steam railroad. It was among the first rifled cannon made in the United States. This piece was in Columbia when General William Tecumseh Sherman’s Union troops occupied that town, and Union soldiers tried to burst the cannon, cracking it near the muzzle. During riots in the period of Reconstruction the Washington Light Infantry manned the gun. The Confederate Museum is in a hall over the west end of the old City Market established between 1788 and 1804, extending from East Bay Street to Meeting Street. Through many years all household marketing was done in the stalls. Into recent years it was a common sight to see a gentleman doing the marketing, a negro with a large basket following him from stall to stall. There survive stalls in the Market, but the long low building is not congested as it was in other years. The telephone has contributed much toward the discontinuance 46 of the good old Charleston custom of marketing in person.

MARION SQUARE, King, Meeting and Calhoun Streets: Named in honor of General Francis Marion, hero of the Revolution, affectionately called the “Swamp Fox,” this six-acre square in the very heart of Charleston was from 1882 to 1921 the parade ground of The Citadel, the military college of South Carolina, giving rise to the nickname, Citadel Green. The Citadel is now at Hampton Park, on the Ashley River, but its main building and four wings stand as reminders. In Lowndes Street, from Calhoun to the Citadel sally port, is a statue of John Caldwell Calhoun, eminent South Carolina statesman, atop a tall granite shaft. On the Meeting Street side is a monument to General and Governor Wade Hampton, savior of his State in Reconstruction, and on the west side a section of “horn work,” part of the Revolutionary line of fortifications for the defense of Charlestown against the invading British. It was just outside the town, Boundary Street becoming Calhoun Street after the town limits were extended to their present line in 1849. Before the purchase by the now defunct Fourth Brigade, the square was solidly built. After the evacuation of Charleston until 1882 the United States army was in possession of the Citadel buildings. On the east side and on the west side are fountains fed by a great artesian well near King and Calhoun Streets, formerly in the waterworks system.

THE OLDEST DRUG STORE, 125 King Street: America’s oldest drug store business is in Charleston. It has had a career antedating 1781 as in that year Dr. Andrew Turnbull 47 bought the business and began the dispensing of his own remedies. In 1792 Joseph Chouler was the proprietor, in 1806 William Burgoyne, in 1816 Jacob De La Motta. The mortar and pestle he displayed over his Apothecary’s Hall is still extant, and in the store now used. Felix l’Herminier took over the business in 1845 and soon afterward it was in the name of William G. Trott who in 1870 sold it to C. F. Schwettmann. In 1894 the style was C. F. Schwettmann & Son. This continues with John F. Huchting as proprietor. In 1920 Mr. Huchting presented much of the old Apothecary’s Hall to the Charleston Museum which has reset it and where it may be seen. More than one hundred and fifty years for a drug business is a worth-while record!

CHARLESTON LIGHTHOUSE, on Morris Island: During Colonial years the only coastal light south of the Delaware capes was the Charleston Lighthouse on Morris Island, built in 1767. The present tower was built in 1876; it is of brick, 161 feet high. The earthquake of 1886 cracked the tower and threw the lens out of adjustment. From the first Charleston Light came a copper plate in the corner stone, reading: “The first stone of this Beacon was laid on the 30th of May 1767 in the seventh year of His Majesty’s reign, George the III,” and so on. December 18, 1860, the first incident of the War for Southern Independence affecting the lighthouse service occurred at the Charleston Light. The Secretary of the Treasury was told by the Secretary of the Lighthouse Board that he would not recommend that the coast of South Carolina “be lighted by the Federal Government against her will.” December 30, the lighthouse inspector reported that “the Governor of the State of South Carolina 48 has requested me to leave the State.” By the latter part of April, 1861, the Confederates had extinguished this and other lights; they were furnishing no aids to navigation for Union mariners. Morris Island is at the left entrance to the harbor of Charleston. From the eastern end of the Folly Beach, accessible by automobile, a clear view of the Charleston Light may be had.

MIDDLETON PLACE, Gardens on the Ashley River: This was the seat of Arthur Middleton, Signer of the Declaration of Independence. Henry Middleton, of The Oaks, president of the Continental Congress, obtained the land through his wife. Two English landscape gardeners were brought oversea to fashion the show place, which was completed about 1740. The fine Tudor house was put to the torch late in the War for Southern Independence. Only the left wing stands, and in it the owner, J. J. Pringle Smith, descendant of the Signer, lives. The old steps to the main building are in place, and from them a commanding view of the broad formal terraces and the winding Ashley River is had. The first japonicas brought into this country were transplanted at Middleton Place about 1805 and one of the original plants was alive in 1939. Middleton Place is famous not only for its gorgeous azalea show in spring, but for the wide variety of plants. It has been praised with lavish enthusiasm by distinguished visitors. Annually thousands of people travel many miles to walk about these wonderful gardens, a living reminder of the beauty wrought before the Revolution. The grave of the Signer is at Middleton Place. The Gardens are on the Ashley River Road, about fourteen miles from the Ashley River Bridge. If one would see gardens, terraces and hedges substantially as they were in 1740; if one would see one of the world’s most beautiful places, he should be sure of visiting Middleton Place.

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Alluring Views of Magnolia-on-the-Ashley

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MAGNOLIA GARDENS, on the Ashley River: Distinguished authors have heaped glowing compliments on the enchantment that is Magnolia-on-the-Ashley, “a sight unrivalled,” said a writer in the Chicago Tribune. The fame of these gardens has gone wide and far. Thomas P. Lesesne, of Charleston, was in the great Kew Gardens, London. Coming to the azalea section he was surprised to find a sign declaring to all who came that way that if one would see the azalea in the zenith of its beauty, he should visit Magnolia-on-the-Ashley, near Charleston, South Carolina, United States of America! In Kew! Think of that! John Galsworthy, Owen Wister and other notables have shed superlatives in describing the gardens. In this show place on the Ashley River, the Reverend John Grimke Drayton planted the first Azalea Indica. They had been imported from the East to Philadelphia in 1843, but, the Pennsylvania climate being too rigorous for them, Mr. Drayton was invited to see what he could do with them. And what he has done with them brings thousands of people from distant places each spring when the azaleas are in the full glory of their bloom! The gardens, about twenty-five acres in extent, have what is declared to be the most valuable collection of the Camellia Japonica; there are more than 250 varieties. They come into bloom in the winter, and the gardens are open for their inspection. Carlisle Norwood Hastie, present owner of Magnolia, is grandson of the Reverend Mr. Drayton, an Episcopalian minister. Two hundred years the property has been in possession of the Drayton family. 51 During the Revolution the Colonial mansion was burned and a second building was burned during the War for Southern Independence. Mr. Hastie has purchased the old Tupper house in Charleston (its site on Meeting Street) for rëerection at Magnolia-on-Ashley. Moss-covered oak and cypress trees, bordering mirroring lagoons, furnish a bewitching background for the gardens, with the Ashley River in front.

ASHLEY RIVER BRIDGE, on the Coastal Highway (17): Until the first of July, 1921, the bridge over the Ashley River at the head of Spring Street was privately owned. At that time the county of Charleston acquired it by purchase and at once the toll was taken off. In the spring of 1926, the present handsome and commodious concrete bridge was formally opened. It is slightly down-stream from the rather ramshackle wooden bridge. It cost a million and a quarter dollars. It is wide enough for four vehicles abreast and on each side is a sidewalk for pedestrians. Its huge bascule leaves provide plenty of clearance for the greatest seagoing vessels. This bridge, a memorial to Charleston soldiers who lost their lives in the World War, is an essential link in the Coastal Highway between the provinces of eastern Canada and the keys of Florida, thence by “ferry” to Havana, Cuba. It connects the city of Charleston with all the trans-Ashley region. From the town it leads to James Island (on which are the Country Club and the Municipal Links, Riverland Terrace and Wappoo Hall) and the popular Folly Beach; by way of James Island to the Stono River bridge which is near the famous Fenwick Hall, a great estate in pre-Revolutionary years; it leads to Walterboro, Beaufort, Port Royal (site of the earliest French colony) and Savannah and Jacksonville; it leads to the Ashley 52 River Road for St. Andrew’s Church, Middleton Place, Magnolia-on-the-Ashley, Drayton Hall, Runnymede, Wragg Barony and Bacon’s Bridge over the upper Ashley River. In the War Between the States the old bridge was burned and after Appomattox more than fifteen years elapsed before it was restored. Near the Ashley River Bridge in St. Andrew’s Parish are sites of the earliest English plantations. Quite near it Eliza Lucas, daughter of the Governor of Antigua and mother of the Generals Charles Cotesworth and Thomas Pinckney, carried forward her indigo experiments. David Ramsay says that the indigo planters doubled their capital every three or four years.

COOPER RIVER BRIDGE, on the Old King’s Highway: Coming to Charleston President George Washington, President James Monroe and the Marquis de Lafayette traveled over the old King’s Highway. Washington was here in 1791, Monroe in 1819 and Lafayette in 1825. From the Mount Pleasant shore to the City of Charleston they crossed by primitive ferry. To August of 1929 ferries over the broad Cooper River were continued. In that month the great bridge over the Cooper River was opened to traffic. This is the world’s third highest vehicular bridge! Its span over Town Creek affords vertical clearance of 132 feet, as much as that of the famous Brooklyn Bridge, and the span over the Cooper River a vertical clearance of 152 feet at mean high water. From the crest of this engineering achievement are provided commanding views. In the distance to the right is Fort Sumter, looking for all the world like a toy fortress in a toy pool. From this coign of vantage one sees the many bold and little creeks that flow into the Cooper. To the middle left one sees 53 the heavy woods of Christ Church Parish. Give the imagination rein and appear ghosts of almost naked Indians, of early English, French, Irish, Scotch; of bitter conflicts of man against man; of Sir Peter Parker and his naval armada smiting the little palmetto fort with shot and shell. At Charleston, over the Cooper River Bridge the old Kings Highway makes junction with the Coastal Highway. It is the short route from Charleston to Georgetown, Wilmington, Norfolk, crossing the lower Santee and other bold coastal streams almost within sight of the sea. There is every promise that the old King’s Highway, paved, will develop into a paramount route between East and Southeast, an important alternate to the Coastal Highway. No visitor to Charleston should forego the opportunity of passing over the three-mile Cooper River Bridge. It is a sensation well worth the trivial Journey.

THE CITADEL, the Military College of South Carolina: General Charles Pelot Summerall is now a Charlestonian and proud of it. He would add that his pride is the greater in that he is president of The Citadel, the military college of South Carolina, an institution whose illustrious record goes back to 1842, which furnished distinguished officers for the Confederacy, in the Spanish and World Wars. As the Cadet Battalion went into the Confederate service the college was closed in 1864. From the evacuation of Charleston to The Citadel’s reopening in 1882, it was occupied by Union soldiers. From its establishment in 1842 to the fall of 1922, The Citadel was on Marion Square. Because it needed more room, it went into new quarters at Hampton Park on the Ashley River where now it is. It was a cadet battery that fired the first gun of the War for Southern Independence; the 54 Union ship Star of the West was driven off while attempting to bring supplies to the garrison besieged in Fort Sumter. Year after year the War Department of the United States designates The Citadel as a distinguished military college. Its academic standards are high.

PORTER MILITARY ACADEMY, Distinguished Military School: “Through the noble efforts” of the Reverend Anthony Toomer Porter, D.D., then Rector of the Episcopal Church of the Holy Communion, the Porter Military Academy had its origin in 1867 as the Holy Communion Church Institute, in its genesis “a classical school for the children of parents in straitened circumstances,” due to the War for Southern Independence. In Dr. Porter’s absence his board of trustees named the institution for him. Among its distinguished alumni is General Charles Pelot Summerall, former Chief of Staff of the United States Army and now President of The Citadel. The Porter Military Academy occupies the grounds of the United States Arsenal; it is bounded by Ashley Avenue and Bee, President and Doughty Streets. It continues to earn a high place among Southern educational institutions, its boarding cadets coming from many States. It is a fully accredited preparatory school.

COLLEGE OF CHARLESTON, Oldest Municipal College: To claim the distinction of being America’s oldest municipal college is a large order, but the College of Charleston, on George Street between St. Philip and College Streets, earns it by the record. The institution was founded in 1770 and takes rank as fifteenth in the list of American colleges. Its roll of graduates sounds like a list of South Carolina’s 55 illustrious: John C. Fremont, explorer and candidate for the presidency; James B. DeBow, ante-bellum economist; Edward McCrady, historian; Bishop William Wightman, of the Methodist Episcopal Church; Bishop Bowen, of the Protestant Episcopal Church; William H. Trescott, diplomat; Paul Hamilton Hayne, poet; Chancellor Henry Deas Lesesne; United States Judge Henry A. M. Smith, historian and scholar; the Rev. J. L. Girardeau, eminent Presbyterian minister. On its governing board have served such distinguished men as James Louis Petigru, Robert Young Hayne, John Julius Pringle, Daniel Elliott Huger, Langdon Cheves, Henry Middleton, General William Washington, Joel Roberts Poinsett, Judge Mitchell King. In 1837 the college was taken over by the Corporation of Charleston; it is the oldest municipal college in America. Among the founders of the College of Charleston were the ablest men in the Royal Province of South Carolina, among them two Signers of the Declaration of Independence (Arthur Middleton and Thomas Heyward, Jr.) and three Signers of the Constitution of the United States (Charles Pinckney, Charles Cotesworth Pinckney and John Rutledge, “The Dictator”).

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St. Mary’s, 79 Hasell Street; Mother Parish of Catholics in Carolinas and Georgia

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ORIGINAL DEPARTMENT STORE, King Street at Market: “Ghosts rush out every time I pass,” said a friend. He was growing sentimental about the Academy of Music building, razed in 1937. In 1830 in this “whale of a building,” for its time, was opened the world’s first department store. With great stocks from all parts of the world the Kerrisons built up an enormous business, their customers coming from as far as the Mississippi River! It was a massive building of massive construction. Its masonry was notable and it may be that its great heart cypress timbers were more notable. To the coming of the War for Southern Independence, Charleston being capital of a far-flung slave empire, business in the building prospered. Kerrison’s of this time is descendant of the original Kerrison’s; it is across and higher up King Street, one of the leading department stores of the South. After Appomattox Charleston was without a theater. The Charleston Theater had been destroyed in the fire of 1861. John Chadwick, a school master, acquired the building and converted the rear portion into a theater, the Academy of Music, wherein have appeared famous actors, actresses and singers, great bands and orchestras. Georges Barrere, solo flautist and conductor of the Little Symphony Orchestra and the Barrere Ensemble, after playing his flute on the stage, remarked: “Here is a veritable ‘Strad.’ of a theater!” Barrere was justly complimenting the remarkable acoustics of the theater. It is well to bear in mind that Charleston had a great department store before the first of the steam railroads began operation in America! A century ago in a mezzanine gallery on the top floor were displayed laces, embroideries and other fine goods from the world’s finest makers. As a theater the Academy of Music was owned for some years by John A. Owens, nationally known for his portrayal of Solon Shingle. It may be permissible here to say that Joseph Jefferson used to manage a theater in Charleston, that his mother was born in Charleston.

WASHINGTON SQUARE, Called also City Hall Park: In the northwest corner of this park is the first fireproof building built in America, for which salient reason Charleston knows it as The Fireproof Building. It was erected about 1826. Robert Mills was the architect. It is used for 58 county offices and records. In the southwest corner is the City Hall which is discussed elsewhere. On Broad, Meeting and Chalmers Streets are handsome wrought-iron gates and wrought-iron railings of great grace. In the center of the park is a shaft of granite to the three companies of the Washington Light Infantry which served the Confederacy valiantly on the battlefields of Virginia in the 60’s, and in the defense of Charleston. Southward of this is a bust to the lilting Carolina poet, Henry Timrod, and eastward a monument to General Pierre G. T. Beauregard, for some time in the War for Southern Independence, commanding officer at Charleston. New Orleans paid tribute to this illustrious soldier long after Charleston had done so. Near the west gate is the statue of William Pitt.

WILLIAM PITT STATUE, in Washington Park: “The gentleman (Benjamin Franklin) tells us that America is obstinate, America is almost in open rebellion. Sir, I rejoice that America has resisted! Three millions of people so dead to all the feelings of liberty as voluntarily to submit to be slaves would have been fit instruments to make slaves of all the rest!” William Pitt was speaking in the House of Commons, London, denouncing the iniquitous stamp tax. Charlestown heard of the Pitt speech and Charlestown applauded. Charlestown ordered a statue of the great statesman in recognition of his noble position. The statue was received in Charlestown May 31, 1770, and was erected in the intersection of Broad and Meeting Streets, the most prominent position in the town at that time. During the Revolution a shell from a British gun on James Island struck off the right arm, explaining its absence into this 59 day. Years afterward, interfering with traffic, it was removed to the yard of the Charleston Orphan House and in 1881, through the Carolina Art Association, placed where now it is in Washington Park.

LORD CAMPBELL’S HOUSE, 34 Meeting Street: Last of the Royal Governors, Lord William Campbell, precipitately left Charlestown September 16, 1775, taking refuge aboard H.M.S. Tamar. Lord Campbell by night went through his garden to a boat in Vanderhorst Creek (Water Street nowadays). He had come to Charlestown June 18, 1775, and was “received civilly, but without enthusiasm.” Fleeing, he carried with him the Great Seal of the Province. South Carolina was on the way to independence. The house was built about 1760 and was owned by Mrs. Blake, first cousin to Sarah Izard who married Lord Campbell. She belonged to one of the richest and most influential families in the Province. After the Revolution, about 1795, Colonel Lewis Morris, a Revolutionary officer, acquired the property. Colonel Francis Kinloch Huger, who had part in the frustrated plot to liberate the Marquis de Lafayette from the Austrian prison of Olmutz, was wounded on the steps of this house; a section of the bull’s-eye in the roof fell and fractured his skull. In the earthquake of 1886, a young Englishman was killed on the steps; a piece of the parapet fell on him. The house has been in the Huger family for years. The handsome piazzas on the south side were built for the late William E. Huger, whose son, Daniel Elliott Huger, is the present owner.

WILLIAM BULL’S HOUSE, 35 Meeting Street: Across 60 Meeting Street from the Charlestown home of Lord William Campbell was the home of the first Lieutenant Governor of the Royal Province of South Carolina, William Bull, who is said to have erected it; he died in 1755. It was his son, William Bull, then also Lieutenant Governor who was occupying it at the outbreak of the Revolution. The office of Lieutenant Governor was devised to safeguard against an interregnum between the naming of Governors by the King of England.

MILES BREWTON HOUSE, 27 King Street: History, romance, legend and tradition crowd upon this famous mansion, built by Miles Brewton about 1765. Brewton and his family perished at sea and the property descended to his sister, the famous Mrs. Rebecca Motte (whose name is perpetuated in the Rebecca Motte Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution). This gallant and patriotic lady was living in the house when the British took possession of Charleston. Sir Henry Clinton commandeered it as his headquarters, and Lord Rawdon did the same thing. Lord Cornwallis was quartered in the house. Again, when the Union forces occupied Charleston in the War for Southern Independence, the general commanding set up his headquarters here. Later the house was the residence of the Pringle family, hence it is commonly known nowadays as the Pringle House. The visitor should observe the picturesque old coach house adjoining and to the north. The old garden is behind high brick walls, so typical of the old Charlestown. Her home in possession of the invading British, Rebecca Brewton Motte, widow of Jacob Motte, retired with his family to her plantation house in Orangeburg County on the Congaree River. The British, seizing the residence, built a parapet around it. Francis Marion and Henry Lee laid siege to it. Apprised that British reinforcements were approaching, the officers considered the burning of the fine property, but hesitated. Mrs. Motte, however, overcame their scruples. Bringing out an African bow and arrows for it, she deliberately sent flaming arrows to the roof which caught afire, causing the British garrison to surrender with alacrity. After independence Mrs. Motte undertook rice planting on scale and built up a considerable property. Her two eldest daughters, in succession, were wives of the great Thomas Pinckney.

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Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

Trinity Methodist Church

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WILLIAM GIBBES HOUSE, 64 South Battery Street: William Gibbes came to Charlestown direct from England and was active in behalf of the colonies until the actual break with the Crown, when he fled to Bermuda, thence going back to England. The handsome house was built before 1776; the exact date is obscured. Gibbes was with others interested in reclaiming marshy areas in that section. Five years after his death the records show that Mrs. Sarah Smithe purchased the property, the consideration being twenty-five hundred pounds. An elegant ballroom occupies the width of the upper story. Within brick walls on three sides was, and is, a beautiful garden. For years the property belonged to the Drayton family and some years after the War for Southern Independence it was occupied by James Petigru Lesesne, son of the Chancellor Henry Deas Lesesne and a great-grandson of the Huguenot pastor, Jean Louis Gibert who came from the Channel Islands leading a French colony into upper South Carolina. It passed into the ownership of Colonel J. B. E. 63 Sloan and in late years is the property of Mrs. Washington A. Roebling, widow of the builder of the Brooklyn Bridge over the East River, New York.

WILLIAM BLACKLOCK HOUSE, 18 Bull Street: This fine mansion, built about 1800, is considered one of the best examples of its type of architecture. It is a two-story brick dwelling, with a double set of steps leading to an entrance platform. The carriage gates are gracefully ornate. There is the peculiarity that the gates are of wood, rather than of the wrought-iron pieces that would be expected.

THE WASHINGTON HOUSE, 87 Church Street: President George Washington, visiting Charleston in May, 1791, was “domiciled” in the residence of Thomas Heyward, Jr., one of the four South Carolina Signers of the Declaration of Independence. Edward Rutledge, also a Signer of the Declaration, was of the company that greeted the soldier-statesman across the Cooper River and escorted him to town. A complete equipment was organized by the City of Charleston for the President’s comfort. The house has undergone changes. For some years a baker did business on the ground floor. The property is now owned and maintained by the Society for the Preservation of Old Dwellings. Down the street and on the opposite side at No. 78, President Washington addressed citizens from the balcony, which is a graceful reminder of the French influence in Charleston.

MYTHICAL OLD SLAVE MARKET, 6 Chalmers Street: Chalmers in this year is fairly famous for two things: It is Charleston’s surviving “cobble-stone” street, the stones coming 64 in ballast from European shores in the old sailing days, and on it is a building that tourists are told was the old Slave Market. The myth has been exploded repeatedly, but it persists, and since there are no black slaves it probably doesn’t matter. Authorities are positive in saying that nowhere in Charleston was there a constituted slave market for the public auctioning of blacks from Africa. Several houses in this vicinity were used in olden times to quarter slaves who were to be sold on the block. Authorities also agree, propagandists to the contrary notwithstanding, that the black slaves in the South were in better care than were the peasantry in any other part of the world.

CHARLESTON LIBRARY, 164 King Street: Organized in 1748 by seventeen young gentlemen of Charlestown, third oldest in this country, the Charleston Library Society, a private enterprise governed by a Board of Trustees, moved into a new fireproof building in recent years. In 1835 the society bought the building of the old South Carolina Bank, at the northwest corner of Broad and Church Streets, using this until the transfer to King Street. The society has more than 60,000 volumes. It owns the only surviving file of the South Carolina State Gazette and one of three files of The Courier (1803). Valuable books were lost in the fire of 1778. In the War for Southern Independence most of the volumes were taken to Columbia for safekeeping; those left in the society’s building were destroyed. In 1874 the old Apprentices’ Society was merged with the Charleston Library Society. In 1900, dissolving, the South Carolina Jockey Club transferred its property to the library; the club and the society were about of an age. Generous bequests have greatly assisted the society.

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CHARLESTON MUSEUM, 123 Rutledge Avenue: This, the oldest Museum in the country, is housed in the former Thomson Auditorium, built in 1899 for conventions, with money bequeathed by John Thomson. The Charlestown Museum was organized in 1773 and incorporated in 1915. Very fine collections of natural history and of the history of human culture are owned. Lately the Museum had the great good fortune to come into possession of the priceless collection of birds preserved by the distinguished South Carolina ornithologist, Arthur Trezevant Wayne. A skeleton of a large whale which found its way into Charleston harbor and was harpooned is one of the Museum’s unique specimens, unique in that the cetacean was caught in this harbor.

THE BATTERY, White Point Gardens: It is no use to call the Battery by its proper name; even in Charleston, White Point Gardens is not recognized as the Battery. Nonetheless the name of this famous and beautiful park and promenade is White Point Gardens. Its sea walls are laved on the south by the Ashley River and on the east by the Cooper River; their confluence is at and off the southeast corner of the Battery. This pleasure ground has been favorably compared with the world’s most famous plazas and promenades. It is a source of never-ending delight to visitors. East, or High Battery begins at the old Granville Bastion, now Omar Temple of the Mystic Shrine. It is a great promenade, with a commanding view of the harbor seaward, with Fort Sumter in the middle-ground. South Battery, proper, is between the East Battery and the extension of King Street to the water. Somewhat more than eight acres constitute South Battery, which, to the westward, becomes the Murray Boulevard, lined, as East and 66 South Battery are, with fine residences. In its origin East Battery had a wall of palmetto logs with a plank walk on top. It was swept away in the great gale of 1804. William Crafts, Jr., originated the first stone wall, with rock ballast from incoming ships as “riprap” to strengthen the wall. The work was completed before 1820. In the War of 1812 guns were emplaced along East Battery, thus, it is held, accounting for its name, The Battery. Fort Broughton and Fort Mechanic have long since disappeared. Fort Street became South Bay Street and later South Battery for its whole length from East Battery through the Boulevard area to the junction with Tradd Street a mile away. It was in 1830 that the first steps toward creating a beautiful pleasure ground were taken. By 1852 White Point Gardens was an accomplished fact. Fine oak and palmetto trees enhance the attractiveness of the Battery. Years ago a bathhouse was removed. The monument to the defenders of Fort Moultrie, commonly called the Sergeant Jasper monument because of the figure of a soldier rescuing the flag, was unveiled June 28 (Carolina Day), 1876, the hundredth anniversary of the repulse of Sir Peter Parker’s British fleet. The monument to William Gilmore Simms, editor, author and historian, was erected in June, 1879. At the foot of Meeting Street is a memorial fountain to the men of the first submarine, Confederates. Facing Fort Sumter is a monument to the defenders of Fort Sumter. On the Battery are relics of all the wars Charleston has seen, the Spanish War being represented by the capstan of the battleship Maine, destroyed in Havana harbor in 1898. To visit Charleston and not to see the Battery is unthinkable. From time to time concerts are given in the band stand. The late Andrew B. Murray contributed generously to the improvement of the Battery and of the driveway named in his honor.

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Trumbull’s Portrait of General George Washington, in the City Hall

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THE COLONIAL COMMON, and Ashley River Embankment: In Charleston beautiful Colonial Lake is The Pond. It came into being in the 1880’s with the reclaiming of the area. The official designation is The Colonial Common and Ashley River Embankment. About this salt-water pond are garden areas, and west of it is the new Moultrie Playground which greatly improves the appearance of the neighborhood. Some of Charleston’s most desirable residences face the pond. Off its northwest corner is the Baker Sanatorium, one of the South’s largest and most completely equipped private hospitals, founded by Archibald E. Baker, surgeon. Less than fifty years ago there was a causeway at the head of Broad Street; nowadays the whole area is populated. Colonial Lake is bounded by Broad Street, Rutledge Avenue, Beaufain Street, and Ashley Avenue, paramount traffic arteries. Its water is from the Ashley River, regulated by a flood-gate.

MEDICAL COLLEGE, 16 Lucas Street: While the Medical College of the State of South Carolina dates from 1823, it did not move to the present site until 1913. For years before that it was in Queen Street. The college maintains schools of medicine, pharmacy and nursing. The News and Courier is quoted: “The early faculty included men of national and international reputation, who gave the college a prestige which placed it at once amongst the foremost institutions of the kind, and among its graduates were not a few whose fame added further luster to their alma mater.... The sessions of the college were carried on without intermission until the 69 outbreak of the War Between the States when lectures had to be discontinued. In 1865 the college was reopened, and in spite of adverse conditions has been in successful operation ever since.” In the session of the Legislature in 1913 the college passed under State control.

THE ROPER HOSPITAL, 15 Lucas Street: On the site of the old City Hospital is the Roper Hospital; riverward is its auxiliary pavilion, the Riverside Infirmary, a high-class private hospital. The Roper is a general hospital operated by the Medical Society of South Carolina, the City of Charleston and the County of Charleston contributing to the care of “free” patients. The institution includes a special building for contagious diseases. The hospital owes its origin to the benevolence of Colonel Thomas Roper. In 1849 the Medical Society proceeded to arrange the building of a hospital, “prompted by the deficient and faulty hospital accommodations of the city at that time.” The City Council appropriated $20,000 and a lot was acquired at Queen and Mazyck Streets. Public spirited citizens swelled the building fund. The building was completed in 1852. Before it was completely furnished and equipped, it had to be opened because of the yellow fever epidemic that raged in 1852. In effect, the old Roper Hospital was leased to the City of Charleston, the arrangement between the Board of Trustees and the City Council beginning in 1856 and terminating in 1865. With the evacuation of Charleston by the Confederates, the Union invaders took it over; its trustees were impotent. Next to the Roper, the city improvised and operated its own hospital, and the Roper trustees closed their institution in 1871. The city hospital was virtually destroyed in the earthquake of 70 1886. The City Council had it transferred to Lucas Street. On this site the present Roper building was erected. It has been greatly enlarged in the last twenty years. Nurses’ homes are on the property, the student nurses being enrolled at the Medical College.

ASHLEY HALL, 172 Rutledge Avenue: Originally one of the historic mansions of Charleston, Ashley Hall, a preparatory school for young ladies, draws its students from many states. In the language of Miss Mary Vardrine McBee, founder and principal: “It is but a little while since Ashley Hall was a venturous experiment. Begun in the conviction that South Carolina and her sister States were ready to welcome a school for girls of high intellectual standing, while cherishing still those amenities of feminine culture which give Southern life its distinctive charm, Ashley Hall was welcomed in its very inception. It had hardly been opened before the necessity of enlargement, alike of building and staff, became apparent.” The grounds about this fine mansion are among the most beautiful in the South. Annually a Shakespearean play is performed in the garden, the students portraying the rôles.

PRINCESS LOUISE, Site of the Landing Stage: Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria, was in Charleston January 19-24, 1883, first member of the English Royal family to come to the capital of the former Royal Province. She was accompanied by her husband, the Marquis of Lorne, then Governor General of Canada, later the Duke of Argyle. In residence at the Charleston Hotel she received “pleasantly a number of our citizens, both ladies and gentlemen.” For her convenience a landing stage was provided at the foot of King Street, on the Battery (the Fort Sumter Hotel is on this site). As the Princess was about to embark on H.M.S. Dido, the Battery was “densely crowded with people, including a number of ladies.” The German Artillery fired a salute and the Dido answered. “The pure splendor of the Japonicas,” said The News and Courier, “reminded the Princess of the old home at Osborne, where so much of her young life was spent.”

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City Hall

College of Charleston

The Old Exchange

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H. A. MIDDLETON’S HOUSE, 68 South Battery Street: Henry Augustus Middleton, of the illustrious Middleton family, died in Charleston in March, 1887, in his ninety-fifth year. He was at the time of his death, The News and Courier said, “the oldest living representative of a family which for more than two centuries has been closely and prominently identified with the history of South Carolina.... He was a school boy when Marengo was being fought and was a young man whose education was finished when the great Napoleon closed his career at Waterloo.” The same newspaper further said that Mr. Middleton “was a conspicuous representative of a society and class which are fast passing into tradition.” He was owner and operator of many great plantations, and before the War for Southern Independence among the leading owners of slaves. He married Harriott, daughter of Cleland Kinloch, of Wee Haw, in Georgetown County. The fine old property is now owned by Dr. W. J. Pettus. Through Mr. Middleton’s life and for twenty-five years thereafter the sea wall on the west side of the yard was washed by the Ashley River at high tide. The marsh expanse to the west is in the Boulevard area.

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ST. FRANCIS XAVIER INFIRMARY, 264 Calhoun Street: The principal building of the St. Francis Xavier Infirmary was built in the bishopric of the Right Reverend William Thomas Russell, of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Charleston, but the wing on Ashley Avenue is much older. Sisters of Mercy have supervision over the Xavier in all its departments, including the school for nurses. The hospital enjoys high rating by the national hospital authorities. The building is commodious, convenient and fireproof.

LIBERTY TREE SITE, 22 North Alexander Street: The Liberty Tree in old Mazyckboro under which Christopher Gadsden, William Johnson and others impatient with English treatment of the colonies met and debated has gone, but a tablet marks the site. The inscription reads: “Near this spot once stood the Liberty Tree where Colonial independence was first advocated by Christopher Gadsden, A.D. 1766, and where ten years later the Declaration of Independence was first heard and applauded by South Carolinians.” This tablet was erected by the Sons of the Revolution in 1905. It was under the tree in a pasture that patriots nurtured high treason against the English Crown.

WILLIAM WASHINGTON HOUSE, 8 South Battery Street: Here lived Colonel William Washington, a Virginian, who achieved distinction in the Revolution, mainly in South Carolina. The fine old house was built by Thomas Savage about 1769 and was purchased by Colonel Washington after independence had been recognized. His fiancée, member of a proud South Carolina family, presented him with a flag when she learned he had none. It was a piece taken from a handsome 74 drapery of red silk and became known as the Eutaw flag, for the Battle of Eutaw Springs. In 1827 Mrs. Washington, his widow, gave this battle-stained banner to the Washington Light Infantry which now owns it. Latterly the property has been owned by Julian Mitchell, outstanding lawyer, president of the South Carolina National Bank.

HAMPTON PARK, Head of Cleveland Street: Notwithstanding its comparative youth Hampton Park, named for General Wade Hampton, is a distinguished pleasure ground, its gardens developed to a high state of loveliness. Some time after the South Carolina, Inter-State and West Indian Exposition (1901-02) the city took over the property and developed it into a modern park. Its sunken garden, with ducks and geese and swans playing in the water, is appealing, and about it on all sides are flower beds, profusely beautiful in their seasons. Large canebreaks are growing near the sunken garden. An attractive driveway goes about the property, but vehicles are not permitted within the garden area. A section of the tract, bordering the Ashley River, was ceded to The Citadel, the Military College of South Carolina, after the World War. A stroll through Hampton Park’s flowers in spring and summer is thoroughly worth while. Features include a zoo and an aviary.

COUNTY COURT HOUSE, Broad and Meeting Streets: In years when Charleston was Charles Town, when Indians were roaming these coastal woods, the State House stood at the northwest corner of Broad and Meeting Streets. It was burned in 1788, after Columbia, on the Congaree, had become the capital of the State. Not long after the fire the county 75 built its court house here. The building was renovated and enlarged several years ago, the court room being in the annex. Records running back to the Proprietary era are in the offices of the Clerk of Court. A legend persists that the Court House is the old State House, but it is a mistaken legend, for it was burned in 1788. From its entrance Governor John Rutledge first read the Declaration of Independence.

UNITED STATES POST OFFICE, Broad and Meeting Streets: Since 1896 the United States post office has been in the granite building at the southwest corner of Broad and Meeting Streets, on the site of the old (police) Guard House which suffered heavy damage in the earthquake of 1886. Southward of the building is an attractive park which is not open to the public. The United States court and its officials and attachés have quarters in the building. Previously the post office was in the old Exchange, at the foot of Broad Street. On the four corners of Broad and Meeting Streets are: Southwest, post office; southeast, St. Michael’s Episcopal Church, on the site of the first English church; northeast, City Hall, the building erected for the United States Bank; on the site of an early market place; northwest, County Court House, on the site of the old State House. (Consult the Index.)

UNITED STATES CUSTOMS HOUSE, East Bay Street, at Market: Work on this, one of the handsomest government buildings, was begun in 1850 and was proceeding when the War for Southern Independence interrupted. After Appomattox it was completed, but it is much smaller than the original plans prescribed, explaining the fine esplanade effect in front. It is a Roman-Corinthian building of white marble, and its steps, both front and back, have elicited warm admiration from appreciative visitors. Piles, grillage and concrete were used in the foundations. The building houses the customs service, the army engineer offices, the weather bureau, the public health surgeon, the immigration service, the internal revenue offices and the bureau of steamboat inspection. In the basement from time to time are stored quantities of “contraband” confiscated by the Coast Guard and other federal prohibition agents. Prior to 1850 the old Fitzsimmons wharf was on the site of the Customs House quay.

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Middleton Place
Surviving Wing Tudor House

Middleton Place
Lovely Vista in the Gardens

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SOUTH CAROLINA HALL, 72 Meeting Street: This is the property of the South Carolina Society, built in 1804 as a free school and meeting place, but the society dates to 1736 when it was formed by French Protestants for charitable purposes. In the beginning it was known as the Two-Bit Club. Through years it has done noble work in assisting the families of deceased members and in educating their children. The porch over Meeting Street is notably attractive; it was added when the building was improved and enlarged. Members have made liberal donations to this society, as mural tablets in the hall attest. The St. Andrew’s Society, organized by Scots in 1729, is quartered in this building, accounting for the presence of tables and chairs used in the Secession convention in St. Andrew’s Hall, Broad Street, burned in the fire of 1861.

THE SWORD GATES, 32 Legare Street: Years and years ago, a famous school for girls was on this property under the principalship of Madame Talvande, survivor of the Domingo massacres. It is one of the most desirable residential properties 78 in Charleston. It was built in 1776. Through the Sword Gates (1815-20), uncommonly fine examples of ornate and graceful iron work, one peeps into a beckoning garden, protected by high brick walls. The ballroom in the house is known as one of the most elegant in Charleston. There are really two houses, the older, of brick, on the north; the wooden building has broad piazzas on two sides, overlooking the large garden to the south and west. For years, after the Confederate War, Colonel Charles H. Simonton, United States Circuit Judge, distinguished Confederate officer, and his family lived here. Now it is the property of a granddaughter of President Abraham Lincoln, who owns also the old Magwood Gardens in St. Andrew’s Parish on the Ashley River Road. Kinspeople of Mrs. Abraham Lincoln have long been resident in the Barnwell section of this State.

BETH ELOHIM SYNAGOGUE, 74 Hasell Street: Charleston has had a Jewish congregation since 1750. The tabernacle of Beth Elohim was dedicated in March, 1843, and was among the first synagogues in which an organ was installed. To this congregation is attributed the Jewish Reform movement in the United States, which had its beginning in 1824. The Beth Elohim congregation had a tabernacle on this site just after the Revolution; it was destroyed in the fire of 1838. The incorporation of the congregation dates to 1781. The present tabernacle is a fine example of the Athenian style in architecture. Certain changes in the interior were made about 1880.

YOUNG MEN’S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION, 26 George Street: While this handsome and commodious building 79 was completed in 1912, the association in Charleston was organized in 1854 and is one of the oldest. Its beginning was less than ten years after the Young Men’s Christian Association was founded in London, England, June 6, 1844; the Charleston date was February, 1854. The Charleston association moved into its own building at 208 King Street in 1889 and there remained until it occupied the present building at 26 George Street. Clarence Olney Getty has been general secretary since 1917.

YOUNG WOMEN’S CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION, 76 Society Street: This Charleston branch of a great association had its beginning in 1903. Its first quarters were in an old residence at 21 George Street, the modern building coming with the growth of membership and the increase of community calls.

GRACE CHURCH, 100 Wentworth Street: Its congregation founded in 1840, its corner stone laid in July, 1847, Grace Episcopal Church was consecrated November 9, 1848. The Reverend Charles Cotesworth Pinckney, D.D., was its rector from 1850 to his death in 1898, nearly a half century. The Reverend William Way, D.D., has been rector more than a quarter of a century. Grace has one of the largest and most prosperous Episcopalian congregations in the South.

ST. PAUL’S CHURCH, 126 Coming Street: This is frequently called St. Paul’s, Radcliffeboro, as its site was outside the town when the edifice was consecrated in March, 1816; the congregation was founded in 1811. Its first rector was the Reverend Dr. Percy, an Englishman, who in 1772 took charge 80 of the Bethesda school near Savannah, established by George Whitefield. St. Paul’s is a handsome building with Gothic tower and an impressive portico, with four Doric columns.

ST. PETER’S P.E. CHURCH, Rutledge and Sumter Streets: On this site of Christ Church is St. Peter’s, so named from the old church at No. 8 Logan Street. Through arrangement of the two vestries, the new St. Peter’s came into the old St. Peter’s properties. The Logan Street church was burned in the fire of 1861. Its graveyard is maintained. Possibly it was on this site that Hessian soldiers were drilled during the Revolution, as Charles Fraser says they went through their military exercises in Logan Street.

CONVENT OF OUR LADY OF MERCY, Legare and Queen Streets: This large brick building is of quite recent construction, but the Sisters of Mercy have been in Charleston more than a hundred years. Misses Mary Joseph and Honora O’Gorman, their niece, Mary Teresa Barry, fourteen years and six months old, and Miss Mary Burke arrived in Charleston November 23, 1829, coming on the invitation of Bishop John M. England. The Misses O’Gorman were natives of Cork, living in Baltimore, Maryland. December 10 they accepted the habit of religion, with Sister Mary Joseph as superioress of the new Community. In a small house on Friend (now Legare) Street the Sisters established the Academy of Our Lady of Mercy in December, 1830. Two years later the Bishop established a seminary and appointed Sister Mary Martha (Miss Honora O’Gorman) to its supervision. The Orphanage, Queen and Logan Streets, was established in 1840, under the care of the Sisters. The St. Francis Xavier Infirmary, Ashley Avenue and Calhoun Street, dates to 1882; it began in the McHugh residence, Magazine Street. In 1870 the Sisters acquired the old Nathaniel Russell house, 51 Meeting Street, relinquishing it on the completion of the new Convent. From the Charleston Community of Sisters of Mercy have gone other communities into both Carolinas and Georgia. Nor yellow fever nor war nor earthquake has swerved these consecrated women. They were angels of mercy in the yellow fever epidemics of 1835 and 1852. They nursed friend and foe alike in the War for Southern Independence. Notwithstanding the alarm and excitement in the time of the earthquake (1886) they ministered calmly, sweetly, efficiently to the sick and the injured.

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Miles Brewton House, 27 King Street

“Sword Gates,” 32 Legare Street

Gateway, Home of Herbert Ravenel Sass, Author, 23 Legare Street

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BISHOP ENGLAND HIGH SCHOOL, 203 Calhoun Street: Long have the Catholics of Charleston had their parochial schools and the Academy of Our Lady of Mercy for girls. In 1914, in the pro-Cathedral, next to the Convent, Bishop Northrop established the Bishop England High School. Outgrowing these accommodations, it was transferred to the former home of the Cenacle Nuns in Calhoun Street, and on this site later the present large building was erected. Under the principalship of the Reverend Joseph L. O’Brien, the school has acquired a shining progress.

BIRTHPLACE OF MASONRY, Broad and Church Streets: Charleston has the oldest lodge of Ancient Free Masons in this country. Chartered by the Grand Lodge in England in 1735, Solomon’s Lodge, No. 1, was organized in October, 1736. Its communications were held above the old Shepheard’s Tavern, northeast corner of Broad and Church 83 Streets, now the home of the Citizens and Southern Bank, successor to the Germania Savings Bank. The site is of interest also in that here was instituted the mother council of the Ancient and Accepted Scottish Rite of Free Masonry in May, 1801, the significance of which is recognized by the Supreme Council of the Scottish Rite, its headquarters in Washington.

THE IZARD HOUSES, 110-114 Broad Street: Some time before 1757 the Izard House in Charlestown was built. It remained in the Izard family a hundred years and since then has been in the possession of the family of Judge Mitchell King. Next door to the west, Ralph Izard, in 1827, began the erection of a house for his daughter, who sold it in 1829 to her brother-in-law, Colonel Thomas Pinckney. It was later acquired for the Bishop of Charleston. The Most Reverend Emmet Walsh, sixth Bishop of Charleston, has residence here. It is but three doors from the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist.

JOHN RUTLEDGE’S HOUSE, 116 Broad Street: The war in which the Cherokee Indians were humbled had not been decided when this house was built in Charlestown. It became the home of John Rutledge, known as the Dictator, second Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of the United States. President of the independent Republic of South Carolina as the Revolution was breaking, he was clothed by the Assembly in 1780-82 with dictatorial powers; he was then Governor. The house, built in 1760, was the residence of Robert Goodwyn Rhett, former Mayor of Charleston, former president of the Chamber of Commerce of the United States, chairman of the board of the People’s State Bank of South 84 Carolina. As guest of the Rhetts President William Howard Taft was entertained in this house.

CYPRESS GARDENS, On the Coastal Highway: Twenty-three miles north of Charleston, on the Coastal Highway (United States No. 52) Benjamin R. Kittredge has developed the Cypress Gardens. A cypress swamp, dark, mysterious, witching, has been shaped into an attraction of great power. To enjoy the Cypress Gardens to the full the visitor should use a boat. In their seasons the azaleas on this property are gorgeous, and in late spring the show of lotus is exquisite. Mr. Kittredge more than twenty years ago acquired the Dean Hall property, an old-time plantation on the Cooper River, from James Petigru Carson, grandson of the eminent lawyer and Unionist, James Louis Petigru.

CHARLESTON ORPHAN HOUSE, 160 Calhoun Street: When the City of Charleston was incorporated in 1783, it was provided that poor orphan children should be cared for by the town. At first boys and girls were boarded in private homes and educated at Charleston’s expense. In November, 1792, the corner stone of the orphanage on the present site was laid, and in October, 1794, it was occupied. At that time the roll of orphans numbered more than a hundred. In 1855, the building was greatly improved and enlarged. In the belfry is one of Charleston’s fire-alarm bells and above the belfry the figure of Charity. Clergymen of Charleston take turns in officiating in the orphans’ chapel, on the Vanderhorst Street side. Distinguished visitors to Charleston have inspected the Orphan House, among them Grover Cleveland when he was here, with Mrs. Cleveland, in 1888. The Charleston Orphan 85 House is one of the oldest in the country. Generous gifts and legacies have greatly assisted the Board of Commissioners, the chairman of whom at this time is the Honorable John F. Ohlandt.

FIRST WHITE CHILD, Born at East Bay and Tradd: The site of the Tradd home is at the northwest corner of East Bay and Tradd Streets. Here was born the first white child of the colony, a boy, Robert Tradd. The Tradd family has perished in Charleston. It is perpetuated in the street so named.

JOHN EDWARDS’ HOUSE, 15 Meeting Street: John Edwards came from England and prospered as a merchant in Charlestown. In 1770 he built the fine mansion at what is now 15 Meeting Street. Edwards cast his lot with the patriots and contributed of his fortune to the cause of independence. “I would rather lose my all, than retain it subject to British authority,” he is reported to have said. During the British occupation in the Revolution, this house was quarters for Admiral Arbuthnot (Sir Henry Clinton was in the Miles Brewton house, 27 King Street). When in 1793 the French fled from San Domingo, the illustrious Compte de Grasse was entertained in this house. (Members of his family are interred in old St. Mary’s Churchyard, Charleston). The Edwards home is the property of the family of George W. Williams, banker.

GIBBES ART GALLERY, 131 Meeting Street: “For the erection or purchase of a suitable building to be used as a hall or halls for the exhibition of painting and for necessary rooms for students in the fine arts,” James S. Gibbes bequeathed about $125,000. The memorial building was erected on the site of the old Grand Opera House, opposite the site of the South Carolina Institute Hall in which the Ordinance of Secession was signed December 20, 1860. It is under supervision of the Mayor and the Carolina Art Association, chartered in December, 1858.

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Lord William Campbell House, 34 Meeting Street

William Washington House, 8 South Battery

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HIBERNIAN HALL, 105 Meeting Street: Says the bronze tablet at the gateway: “Founded March 17, 1801. Met in Corbett’s Tavern until construction of this hall. Dedicated 1841. Long a center of civic life in disasters as in prosperity. Its presidents alternate Catholic and Protestant. Hibernian Society.” Prominent among its founders was Judge Aedanus Burke, of whom many merry stories survive. Through many years the St. Cecilia Society gave its balls in this hall. At the St. Patrick’s Day banquets of the Hibernian Society men of lustrous national and international reputation have spoken.

THE ENSTON HOME, 720 King Street: “To make old age comfortable,” William Enston, native of Canterbury, England, left his estate, after life tenures, for an institution for old and infirm persons. In 1882, in the life-time of the widow, arrangements for constructing the Enston Home were begun and in February, 1899, the memorial hall, a chapel and meeting place was formally dedicated. Cottages occupy about a half of the property. The Board of Trustees is watchful of the conditions warranting further growth. The Enston Home is an exemplary practical charity.

BETHEL METHODIST CHURCH, Calhoun and Pitt Streets: Elsewhere is reference made to the visits of John and 88 Charles Wesley to Charleston in 1736 and 1737. John Wesley preached in St. Philip’s Episcopal Church in 1737. It was in 1785 that Bishop Asbury and his associates came to Charleston. Bethel, one of the strongholds of Methodism in South Carolina, dates to 1850. The church building was dedicated in 1853. It stands on the site where Wesley once preached and the pulpit from which he preached is still in use. The Sunday school building was erected in 1912. The earlier Bethel, known as Old Bethel, moved from the site, is used by a negro congregation at 222 Calhoun Street.

ST. LUKE’S CHURCH, 20 Elizabeth Street: For the convenience of Episcopalians in the northeastern section of Charleston, St. Luke’s Church was founded in December, 1857. The corner stone of the present building was laid in 1859 and the church, though partly completed, used in February, 1862. During the War for Southern Independence Union soldiers sacked the building and a negro female school was held in it. In the fall of 1865 it was repossessed by the vestry. In 1880 the congregation of St. Stephen’s chapel, Anson Street, united with St. Luke’s. For a time after 1900 the church was closed, but reopened by a section of the congregation of St. Paul’s.

YEAMANS HALL, Club on Goose Creek: On property taking its name from Sir John Yeamans, second Governor at Charles Town, is the Yeamans Hall Club, an exclusive organization, the members of which are mainly from the East. A number of the members have their own cottages on the property. Most of them are interested in hunting preserves in coastal South Carolina. The club property is not open to the 89 public. It is on Goose Creek, some distance above its mouth. The late Walter Camp, in a letter said: “The combination of golf and other sports, with fishing, hunting and the close proximity of a large town for supplies renders the situation particularly attractive.” Golfers of wide experience have pronounced the links at Yeamans Hall among the very best. It is appropriate as Charleston boasted a golf club late in the eighteenth century, on the Harleston Green.

UNITED STATES NAVY YARD, on the Cooper River: The development of this naval base and station grew out of a recommendation by a special board in 1901. Of particular interest to the visitor is the old frigate Hartford, flagship of Commodore Farragut in the Battle of Mobile Bay—“Damn the torpedoes; go ahead.” For some years the cruiser Olympia, flagship of Commodore Dewey in the Battle of Manila Bay, was a receiving ship at the Charleston yard, but it was recommissioned in the World War. The destroyer Tillman, the gunboat Asheville and other naval craft have been built at this yard, which is equipped with a dry dock large enough to accommodate modern battleships, and with marine railways of considerable capacity. One of the navy’s most powerful radio-telegraph stations is at the yard. Charleston’s is the only navy yard on the Atlantic Coast south of Norfolk, of peculiar strategic value in relation to the Panama Canal. During the World War thousands of bluejackets were trained here, and the navy maintained a clothing factory with two thousand operatives.

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, Broad and Church Streets: Having begun in 1773 the Charleston Chamber of Commerce 90 is the oldest in the United States. With the removal of the Charleston Library to its building in King Street, the Chamber of Commerce acquired the building, formerly the home of the old South Carolina Bank.

THE COUNTRY CLUB, on James Island: On picturesque property on James Island, on one side washed by Wappoo Creek, the Charleston Country Club has a handsome and comfortable house and an excellent golf course. The club had its beginning in the Belvedere property on the Cooper River, northward of Magnolia Cemetery. Charleston, according to advertisements in the Charleston City Gazette in the late 1790’s, had the country’s first golf club. The Country Club is accessible by yacht as well as by motor, as it is on the inland waterway. A mile from this club are the municipal links, near the Stono River bridge, open to the public.

CHARLESTON’S BANKS: Oldest banking house in the South, dating to 1834, the main office of the South Carolina National Bank is at the northeast corner of Broad and State Streets. The old Bank of Charleston was the parent of the banking system with offices in Columbia, Greenville, Sumter and other South Carolina towns.

The Carolina Savings Bank’s main offices are at the southwest corner of Broad and East Bay Streets.

The Citizens and Southern Bank of South Carolina is in a new home at the northeast corner of Broad and Church Streets, site of the first Masonic lodge in this country.

The Miners and Merchants’ Bank is at 23 Broad Street.

Branch Offices of the banks are at convenient places in King Street, the principal retail area.

91

THE FIRE OF 1861: This conflagration is given prominence because of the great number of important buildings that were destroyed. The Charleston City Year Book of 1880 says that this fire began in a large sash and blind factory near the foot of Hasell Street on the night of Wednesday, December 11, 1861. A gale blowing from the north-northeast the flames swept through the town to the then west end of Tradd Street, laying waste an area of 540 acres and inflicting property damage of about seven millions of dollars. The fire was not due to the war. Among the buildings burned were the Cumberland Methodist Church, the Circular Church, the building of the South Carolina Institute, the Charleston Theater, the building of the St. Andrew’s Society, the Catholic Cathedral of St. Finbar and St. John, St. Peter’s Episcopal Church, the Quaker Meeting House.

CHARLESTON’S BEACHES: Charleston is fortunate in possession of resort beaches which are easily accessible. Sullivan’s Island, on which is old Fort Moultrie, has been a popular summering place for many many years. Beyond it is the Isle of Palms, with its nine-mile strand. A notable pavilion has been a feature since 1899. Both of these islands are reached by way of the Cooper River Bridge and the bridge over Cove Inlet, between Mount Pleasant and Sullivan’s Island. The latter and the Isle of Palms are separated by Breach Inlet, over which is a modern bridge. By way of the Ashley River Bridge, thence through James Island, is the route to Folly Beach, with its seven-mile strand. An entertainment pier was built in time for the season of 1931; this is over the water at high tide. To the east of Folly Beach is Morris Island where stands the Charleston Light, the first and only 92 Colonial light south of the Delaware capes. To the west is the desirable Island of Kiawah, property of the late Major Arnoldus Vanderhorst.

PETIGRU’S GRAVE, in St. Michael’s Yard: When Woodrow Wilson was attending the peace conference at Paris, a message came to Charleston that the president wished the inscription from the grave of James Louis Petigru in St. Michael’s Churchyard. It was furnished at once by Joseph M. Poulnot, then postmaster at Charleston. Mr. Petigru was an eminent South Carolinian. Notwithstanding that he opposed Nullification and Secession he held the high opinion of the community, and commanded its respect. Mr. Petigru, through his mother, was a grandson of the French Protestant Pastor Jean Louis Gibert, who led French settlers to the Abbeville section in the late 1760’s. The inscription on his tomb which is widely quoted says in part:

Future Times will hardly know
How great a Life
This simple stone commemorates;
The tradition of his Eloquence,
His Wisdom, and his Wit may fade:
But he lived for Ends more durable than Fame.
His learning illuminated the principles of Law:
His Eloquence was the Protection of the Poor and Wronged.
In the Admiration of his Peers:
In the Respect of his People:
In the Affection of his Family,
His was the highest Place:
The just Mead
of his Kindness and Forbearance,
His Dignity and his Simplicity,
His brilliant Genius and his unwearied Industry.
Unawed by Opinion,
Unseduced by Flattery:
Undismayed by Disaster,
He confronted Life with antique Courage:
And Death with Christian Hope:
In the great Civil War
He withstood his People for his Country:
But his People did Homage to the Man
Who held his Conscience higher than their Praise:
And his Country
Heaped her Honours upon the Grave of the Patriot,
To whom, living,
His own righteous self-Respect sufficed
Alike for Motive and Reward.

93

Mr. Petigru’s funeral took place March 10, 1863. To a Unionist who went with his people into Secession, highest honors were paid even while the forces of the United States were battering away at Charleston!

A HOUSE OF TRAGEDIES, the Hanging of Lavinia Fisher: In 1820 lawlessness on the “Neck” northward of Charleston was regnant. “Gangs of white desperadoes occupied certain houses and infested the roads leading to the city. To such an extent did these outlaws carry their excesses that wagoners and others coming to the City were under the necessity of carrying rifles in their hands for their defense. Travelers passed these houses with fear and trembling. More dreaded than others of these haunts was that known as the Six-Mile (?) house, occupied by John Fisher and Lavinia, his wife,” says King’s Newspaper Press of Charleston. Fisher and his wife were taken into custody and high crimes and misdemeanors charged against them. In the cellar of their roadhouse were found the bones of guests they had murdered. Their motive was robbery. Their house was on the Meeting Street Road, a section of the Old State Road, Charleston to Columbia. The Fishers were tried and convicted in Charleston. According to King they were hanged February 18, 1820, “at 2 o’clock, just within the lines, on a hill east of the Meeting Street Road, about eight hundred yards north of the street known as Line Street continued.” Mrs. Fisher was unnerved and “called upon the immense throng assembled to rescue her and implored pity with outstretched and trembling hands.” King is mistaken about the Six-Mile house, as authorities say that it was the Four-Mile house, the site of which is readily located; it is four miles from the Charleston Court House on the Meeting Street Road, about a mile north of Magnolia Crossing, and visible from the King Street Extension which is the Charleston approach by the Coastal Highway, United States 52.

94

Monument to Defenders of Fort Moultrie on The Battery

Colonial Powder Magazine, 23 Cumberland Street

95

WESTMINSTER CHURCH, Rutledge Avenue and Maverick Street: This Presbyterian congregation sold its building at 273-75 Meeting Street to the Trinity Methodist Episcopal congregation and erected a new church about two miles from the other site. The congregation derives from St. Andrew’s, or the Third Presbyterian, Church in Archdale Street, built in 1814. It was due to a separation from the First (Scotch) Presbyterian Church. The Reverend Dr. Buchan was the first pastor. About 1850 this church was razed, the congregation building anew on the west side of Meeting Street; the new church was called the Central and for more than twenty years was under the pastoral charge of the Reverend W. C. Dana. 96 With it merged the Glebe Street Presbyterian Church of which the eminent Reverend Dr. J. L. Girardeau was pastor. The Central Church became Westminster. The old yard in Archdale Street is not now used for burials.

OLD THEATER SITE, Joseph Jefferson, Manager: In 1793 the Charleston Theater was built in a corner of Savage’s Green and about the same time New Street was built. Years afterward Joseph Jefferson, famous and beloved American comedian, managed a theater in Charleston. He told the writer that it was at New and Broad Streets, but authorities say that Mr. Jefferson was mistaken; that he meant another old theater at Friend (Legare) and Broad Streets. The late Reverend Dr. Robert Wilson told the writer that this was another mistake, as Mr. Jefferson managed Placides Theater in Queen Street! Mr. Jefferson’s mother was born in Charleston.

SUGAR FACTORY SITE, Later a Home of Correction: According to The Courier (May 16, 1868) at the west end of Broad Street was Savage’s Green on which, before the Revolution was built a manufactory for loaf sugar. For this reason it was known as the Sugar House. It became a Work House or House of Correction. “The lot, together with the building,” says The Courier, “was afterwards owned by Dr. Le Seignieur, who, in 1807, contemplated the establishment of a cotton manufactory. The plan was abandoned in consequence of the machinery having been lost on its passage from Europe.”

SECOND (FLINN’S) CHURCH, Meeting and Charlotte Streets: Presbyterians in Charleston growing in number 97 it was decided that another church was necessary and thus the Second Church was organized in 1811. Its site is the highest place within the City of Charleston, about fifteen feet above mean low water. The tower behind the portico was intended to be surmounted by a steeple, but this addition has yet to be erected. From its first pastor, the church is often alluded to as Flinn’s.

ST. MATTHEW’S CHURCH, 403 King Street: At Christmas, 1867, the corner stone for St. Matthew’s German Evangelical Lutheran Church was laid. The church building was dedicated in March, 1872. The tallest spire in Charleston surmounts the church. An impressive representation of the Crucifixion is in a stained glass window.

CITADEL SQUARE CHURCH, 328 Meeting Street: Offspring of the old First Baptist Church in lower Church Street, the Citadel Square was founded in 1854 and the building dedicated in November, 1856. Members of the Wentworth Street Baptist Church joined with the Citadel Square. In the cyclone of 1885 the steeple fell in such manner as to carry away the front walls of the residence at the northeast corner of Meeting and Henrietta Streets. Several years ago the church building was renovated, the already large auditorium made larger. The Citadel Square, deriving its name from the nickname of the Marion Square which it faces, has one of the largest Baptist congregations in the South.

CHURCH OF THE HOLY COMMUNION, Cannon Street and Ashley Avenue: From this church went its rector, the Reverend H. J. Mikell to become Episcopal Bishop of 98 Atlanta. The late Anthony Toomer Porter, D.D., was its rector for years and this gave the name of Holy Communion Church Institute to what is now the Porter Military Academy. St. Timothy’s Chapel at Porter is more or less attached to the Holy Communion.

ST. ANDREWS LUTHERAN, 37 Wentworth Street: This church building was severely damaged by Union shells in the War for Southern Independence. It was then a Methodist property. After Appomattox this congregation joined with a Morris Street Lutheran congregation under the pastorate of the Reverend Dr. W. S. Bowman. It has had a succession of able, eloquent Lutheran ministers, including the Reverend James A. B. Scherer and the Reverend M. G. G. Scherer.

ST. JOHANNES CHURCH, 48 Harrell Street: This building was first used by the St. Matthew’s congregation which later built on King Street opposite Marion Square. As St. Johannes, it was organized in 1878, though the earlier Lutheran congregation was there in 1841.

SHAW MEMORIAL SCHOOL, 22 Mary Street: Charleston’s tolerance as a community may be illustrated in the Shaw school for negroes. Since 1874 this institution has been in the Charleston city school system. It is a memorial to Colonel Robert G. Shaw, Union officer, who fell at the head of his regiment of negro troops in the assault on Battery Wagner, Morris Island, in the War for Southern Independence. His family provided the “spacious school house” for negroes, the land having been bought in 1868. The Shaw Monument Fund was supported entirely from the North until 1874.

99

Strawberry, Chapel of Ease to Biggin

St. James Church, Goose Creek

100

POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA, Named for Joel Roberts Poinsett: The Poinsettia is commonly known as Charleston’s flower. It was brought from Mexico by Joel Roberts Poinsett, about 1828. “There is some difference of opinion,” says Dr. Gabriel Manigault, “as to whether Mr. Poinsett discovered it himself or simply introduced it to this country.” After his retirement from a busy and distinguished public service, Mr. Poinsett’s home “had always been in the City of Charleston.” His residence was “situated upon what is now Rutledge Avenue, on the east side, a few squares above Calhoun Street. The house ... was recessed some distance from the street, and stood in the midst of a grove of live oaks; it was generally known as Poinsett’s Grove.” Mr. Poinsett was representative in congress, minister to Mexico in an eventful period, Secretary of War under President Van Buren, a rice planter who contributed much to the improvement of the grain.

CHARLESTON’S HOTELS: The Francis Marion, at King and Calhoun Streets, in the heart of the retail shopping district, facing Marion Square, was opened in the spring of 1924. Its building was a community enterprise.

The Fort Sumter, facing the Battery, at the foot of King Street, on the Ashley River, was opened in 1924. It maintains a dock for yachts. It is in the exclusive residential section.

The St. John Hotel, built by Otis Mills, a caravansary with a long and a distinguished record, is at the southwest corner of Meeting and Queen Streets. President Theodore Roosevelt stayed here in the winter of 1902.

The Timrod Hotel, opposite Washington Square, is a comfortable and convenient place in the building formerly occupied by the Commercial Club.

101

The Charleston Hotel, Meeting between Hayne and Pinckney, has housed many notable guests, including the Princess Louise, daughter of Queen Victoria.

The Argyle, northwest corner of Meeting and Hasell Streets, was renovated and newly outfitted some years ago. It was formerly the St. Charles.

Villa Margharita, South Battery and Church Street, was the former home of Andrew Simonds, banker.

CABBAGE ROW, Supposed Home of “Porgy”: Everybody coming to Charleston inquires about “Porgy,” the deformed negro of whom DuBose Heyward wrote a best seller, which was translated into a successful play. Cabbage Row, on Church Street, near Tradd, west side, is the supposed Catfish Row. Cabbage Row has been renovated and restored. “Porgy” was a well-known Charleston character whose home was in the former Village of Cool Blow, on upper Meeting Street. His last days were tragedy. It would spoil a reading of “Porgy” to discuss him at length.

WASHINGTON RACE COURSE, August Belmont Moved the Pillars: Memories of the old Washington race course survive, but the Jockey Club has been out of existence these forty years. Decades have elapsed since races were run on the course. The track was on property entered from Rutledge Avenue near present-day Hampton Park. In 1901 the old pillars in the ornate gateway were purchased by August Belmont and reërected at his Belmont Park, near New York City. There are now no traces of the famous race course to which in the season the South Carolina aristocracy went in force and regalia. Notable races were run.

102

OLD ’BORO BOUNDARIES: Should a visitor stay in Charleston long enough to ramble out of the beaten paths, these boundaries to old divisions may be of interest:

Savage’s Green, west of Logan and Broad Streets.

Harleston’s, bounded by Beaufain, Coming and Calhoun Streets, and the Ashley River.

Mazyck’s Lands, bounded by Archdale, Beaufain, Broad, Smith and Trapman Streets.

Cannonboro’, bounded by Smith, Bull, and Spring Streets and Ashley Avenue.

Gadsden’s Green, bounded by Cannon and President Streets, the old public cemetery (the Stadium) and the Ashley River.

Gadsden’s Square, bounded by Congress, Payne, Mount and Line Streets.

Elliottboro’, within Spring, Line, and Coming Streets and Rutledge Avenue.

Radcliffeboro’, within Radcliffe, Vanderhorst, Smith and King Streets.

Wraggboro’, eastern part of the Wragg Lands about the old Northeastern Railroad station.

Mazyckboro’, bounded by Chapel, Elizabeth and Calhoun Streets and the Cooper River, running into Wraggboro’ as a wedge.

Ansonboro’, south of Wraggboro’, bounded by Calhoun Street, a line between Society and Wentworth, King Street on the west, Anson Street on the east.

Glebe Lands, extending from Beaufain to George Streets, between St. Philip and Coming Streets.

Hewatt Square, bounded by Friend (now Legare), Broad Mazyck (now upper Logan), and Queen Streets.

103

Archdale Square, bounded by Meeting, Broad, King, and Queen Streets.

Schenking’s Square, north of Queen, between King and Meeting Streets, half-way to Horlbeck Alley.

“City Mudpond,” East Battery, South Battery, Church, half-way to Atlantic Street (nowadays a most fashionable residential area).

Village of Hampstead, between South, Blake, Meeting and Bay Streets; owned by Henry Laurens and the Bampfield family.

Village of New Market, north of Hampstead.

“There are other smaller divisions of land which are too numerous to mention here.”—Wilmot G. de Saussure.

105

Index

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

PAGE

Academy of Music 55

Academy of Our Lady of Mercy 80

Aiken, William 16

Allston, Robert F. W., Governor 8

Apothecary’s Hall 46

Arbuthnot, Admiral 85

Archdale, John, Quaker, Governor 15

Argyle, Duke of 28

Art Gallery, Gibbes Memorial 85
Municipal 40
Ashley Hall, Colonial Seat 35
School 70
Ashley River, Bridge 51
Road 35
Attakullakulla, Cherokee Chief 35

Audubon, J. J., Naturalist 30

B

Baker Sanatorium 68

Banks 90

Battery 65

Beaches 91

Beauregard, P. G. T., General 58

Belle Isle Gardens v

Beth Elohim Synagogue 78

Birthplace of Masonry 82

Bishop England High School 82

Bishop’s House 83

Blacklock, William, House 63

Bonnet, Stede, Pirate 41

’Boros, Boundaries of 102

Brewton, Miles, House 60

Bull, William, House 59

C

Cabbage Row 101

Calhoun, Grave 10, 26
Monument 46
106

Campbell, William, Lord, House 59

Cassique of Kiawah 2

Castle Pinckney 37

Chamber of Commerce 89

Churches:

Baptist—
Citadel Square 97
First 28
Congregational, Circular 26
French Protestant (Huguenot) 27
Lutheran—
St. Andrew’s 98
St. Johannes 98
St. John’s 50
St. Matthew’s 97
Methodist Episcopal—
Bethel 87
Cumberland 29
Trinity 29
Presbyterian—
First (Scotch) 28
Second 96
Third (St. Andrew’s) 95
Westminster 95
Protestant Episcopal—
Grace 79
Holy Communion 97
St. Andrew’s 34
St. James, Goose Creek 33
St. Luke’s 88
St. Michael’s 38
St. Paul’s 79
St. Peter’s 80
St. Philip’s (Mother Church) 24
107

Roman Catholic—
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist 39
St. Mary’s (Mother Church) 32
Synagogue, Beth Elohim 78
Unitarian 32
Citadel, Military College 53
Green 46
City Hall 40
Park 57
Cleveland, Grover, President 84

Clinton, Sir Henry 60

College of Charleston 54

Colonial Common 68
Lake 68
Lighthouse 7
Powder Magazine 1
Confederate Museum 46

Convent, Sisters of Mercy 80

Cooper River Bridge 52

Cornwallis, Lord 60

Country Club 90

County Court House 74

Cradle of Presbyterianism 26

Custom House, United States 75
Colonial 41
Cypress Gardens 84

D

De Grasse, Compte 85

Dock Street Theater 9, 24

Dorchester, Ruins of 37

Drayton Hall 35

E

Edwards, John, House 85

England, John M., Bishop 39

English Church 24

108

Enston, William, Home 87

Exchange, Colonial 41

F

Fenwick Hall 51

Fire of 1861 91

Fireproof Building 58

First White Child 85

Fisher, Lavinia, Hanging 93

Folly Beach 91

Fort Bull 35
Johnson 19
Moultrie 21
Sumter 22
Fraser, Charles, Artist 40, 44

G

Gardens, Belle Isle v
Cypress 84
Magnolia-on-Ashley 50
Middleton Place 48
Runnymede 35
Gateway Walk of the Garden Club 16

Gibbes, Memorial Art Gallery 85
William, House 62
Gilman, Samuel, Reverend 32

Golf 88

Goose Creek Church 33

H

Hall, Hibernian Society 87
St. Andrew’s Society, Site 17
South Carolina Institute, Site 44
South Carolina Society 77
Hampton, Park 74
Wade, General, Born 14
Hartford, Famous Frigate 89

Heyward, Thomas, Jr., Signer 63

“Horn Work” Remnant 46

109

Hotels 100

Huger, Francis Kinloch 17

Huguenin, Thomas A. 23

I

Isle of Palms 91

Izard Houses 83

J

Jasper, Sergeant 66

Jefferson, Joseph, Actor 96

K

King’s Highway 52

L

Lafayette, General 17

Lee, Robert E., General 10

Liberty Tree, Site 73

Library, Charleston, Society 64

Lighthouse, Morris Island 47

Lincoln, Abraham, President 78

Lucas, Eliza 52

Lutheran, First Church 30

Lynch, Patrick Nielsen, Bishop 39

M

Magnolia-on-Ashley 50

Marion, Francis, General 19, 46
Square 46
Masonry, Birthplace of 82

Mass, First at Charleston 33

Medical College 68

Middleton, Arthur, Signer 48
Henry A., House 72
Place, Gardens 48
Monroe, James, President 17, 26

Motte, Rebecca, Heroine 60

Moultrie, Fort 21
Monument 66
Playground 68
110

Municipal Golf Links 90

Museum, Charleston 65

Confederate 45

N

Navy Yard, United States 89

Northrop, Henry Pinckney, Bishop 39

O

Oaks, The, Colonial Seat 34

Oldest Building 13
Chamber of Commerce 89
Department Store 55
Drug Business 46
Library 64
Municipal College 54
Museum 65
Steam Railroad 16, 45
Theater 24
Orphan House, Charleston 84

P

Parker, Sir Peter 20

Petigru, James Louis, Grave 92

Pinckney, Castle 37
Charles 55
Charles Cotesworth 17, 52
Thomas 17, 52, 62
Pitt, William, Statue 58

Planters Hotel 9, 24

Poinsett, Joel Roberts 100

“Porgy” 101

Porter Military Academy 54

Postoffice, United States 75

Powder Magazine 15

Princess Louise 70

Q

Quaker Graveyard 15

Quaker Governor, John Archdale 15

111

R

Race Course, Washington 101

Rawdon, Lord 60

Rhett, William, House 14

Roosevelt, Theodore, President 10

Roper Hospital 69

Royal Arms, British 33

Runnymede 35

Rutledge, Edward, Signer 11, 26

John, House 83

S

Saint Cecilia Society 19

Sandford, Robert, Off Coast 1

Scotch Church 28

Secession Convention 17, 44
Chairs 77
Shaw Memorial School 98

Sherman, William T., General 38, 45

Sisters of Mercy 80

Slave Market 63

Smith, Robert, Bishop 24

“Solon Shingle,” John E. Owens 57

Stuart, John, House 19

Sugar Factory, Site 96

Summerall, Charles Pelot, General 53

Sutherland, Duke of 28

Sumter, Fort 22

“Sword Gates” 77

Synagogue, Beth Elohim 78

T

Taft, William Howard, President 83

Theater, First in Charlestown 24

Thomas, Albert Sidney, Bishop 39

Thomson, John, Auditorium 65
William, Colonel 21
Timrod Monument 58

Trott, Nicholas, House 13

112

U

United States, Custom House 75
Navy Yard 89
Postoffice 75

V

Victoria’s Daughter, Queen 70

W

Walsh, Emmet, Bishop 83

Washington, George, President 40, 63
Race Course 101
Square 57
William, House 73
Wesleys, John and Charles 30

White Meeting House 26

White Point Gardens (Battery) 65

X

Xavier, St. Francis, Infirmary 73

Y

Yeamans Hall Club 88

Young Men’s Christian Association 78

Young Women’s Christian Association 79

An Incomparable Stroll

1. Site of Granville Bastion, now Omar Temple of the Shrine.

2. The Battery (White Point Gardens).

3. Villa Margharita.

4. William Washington House.

5. Fort Sumter Hotel; site of Princess Louise’s Landing Stage.

6. Miles Brewton House.

7. William Bull House.

8. Lord William Campbell House.

9. Nathaniel Russell House.

10. First (Scotch) Presbyterian Church.

11. Horry (Branford) House.

12. South Carolina Hall.

13. Postoffice (park to the south).

14. County Court House (site of State House burned in 1788).

15. City Hall (former United States Bank).

16. St. Michael’s Episcopal Church.

17. Site of Lee’s Hotel (Mansion House).

18. Confederate Home (former Carolina Hotel).

19. Chamber of Commerce.

20. Site of Shepheard’s Tavern; birthplace of Masonry.

21. Huguenot Church.

22. Ruins of Planters’ Hotel, including site of First Theatre.

23. Pirate Houses.

24. St. Philip’s Episcopal Church.

25. Grave of John Caldwell Calhoun.

26. Nicholas Trott’s House.

27. Colonial Powder Magazine.

28. Circular Congregational Church.

29. Site of Institute Hall in which Secession was signed.

30. Gibbes Memorial Art Gallery.

31. Charleston Library Society.

32. St. John Hotel.

33. Unitarian Church.

34. St. John’s Lutheran Church.

35. Convent of Our Lady of Mercy.

36. Crafts Public School.

37. Cathedral of St. John the Baptist.

38. Formal garden of Irving K. Heyward.

39. Site of St. Andrew’s Hall in which Secession was adopted.

40. John Rutledge House.

41. The Izard Houses.

42. James Louis Petigru House.

43. Customs House.

44. Zig-Zag Alley.

45. Catholic Orphanage.

46. Site of St. Peter’s Episcopal Church.

47. The “Sword Gates.”

48. John Edwards House.

49. The Old Exchange.

50. Carolina Savings Bank.

51. South Carolina National Bank.

52. People’s State Bank.

53. Hibernian Hall.

54. Timrod Hotel.

55. Quaker Graveyard.

56. John Stuart House.

57. Fireproof Building.

Prints and Plants of Old Gardens, by Kate Doggett Boggs.

A book for those who would like to produce a border, or a fence, or a complete garden and want an old design. The drawings and illustrations were taken from rare prints and books difficult to find and expensive to buy. The author gathered her data from American and English gardens of the seventeenth, eighteenth, and early nineteenth centuries. The appendix contains a list of thousands of plants. The botanical names were traced and arrangement into groups made by Dr. and Mrs. Bayard Hammond of the Botanical Department of Johns Hopkins University. 10 × 13 inches. Drawings and illustrations. $5.00.

* * * * * * * *

Southern Antiques, by Paul H. Burroughs.

This book covers the field of furniture-making over a period of two hundred years, from 1620 to 1820, and is concerned with that part of the old South which comprised the original colonies of Maryland, Virginia, North and South Carolina and Georgia. The text is arranged by sections according to the kinds of furniture illustrated and described. Profusely illustrated. 8½ × 11 inches. Drawings and illustrations. $5.00.

* * * * * * * *

Homes and Gardens in Old Virginia, edited by Susanne Williams Massie and Frances Archer Christian for the Garden Club of Virginia.

This book tells of more than one hundred and fifty homes and gardens in every part of the Old Dominion. The authors include H. J. Eckenrode, Lyon G. Tyler, Rosewell Page, Alexander Weddell, Harold Jefferson Coolidge, Arthur Kyle Davis, Robert A. Lancaster, Amélie Rives (Princess Troubetzkoy) and many others. 6¾ × 9½ inches. 130 full-page illustrations. $5.00.

* * * * * * * *

Thomas Jefferson: Architect and Builder, by I. T. Frary.

This is the first book published covering Jefferson’s complete work as an architect. The unusually fine photographs were made by the author and include exteriors, interiors, detail studies and landscapes, as well as reproductions of Jefferson’s original drawings. I. T. Frary, author, lecturer, teacher, is an authority on architecture. Covers stamped in gold. Introduction by Fiske Kimball. 8½ × 11 inches. 96 full-page illustrations. $5.00.

* * * * * * * *

In the Picturesque Shenandoah Valley, by Armistead C. Gordon.

The story of the great Valley of Virginia told as only Armistead Gordon could tell it—of its scenery, its streams and mountains, its many caverns, and better than all, its famous people. 6 × 9 inches. Maps and illustrations. $2.50.

GARRETT & MASSIE, Publishers
Richmond, Virginia

$1.00

It is said that from the tops of the highest buildings in Charleston come under the eye more historic places than come under it from any other point in the United States. The book tells the history of those places. The Charles Town that was and the Charleston this is are brought before the reader. Names of eminent Carolinians pass in review and the greatness of the lustrous past is linked with the present.

In Charleston survive scars of wars and storms and fires that raged in the long ago. It has had part in Indian, Spanish and French wars. It has had bold adventure with pirates. It was conspicuous in the Revolution and in the War for Southern Independence.

The fame of Middleton Place, Magnolia, and Cypress gardens is world-wide. Annually thousands of people visit Charleston to walk about these wonderful gardens that are a living reminder of the beauty wrought before the American Revolution.

* * * * * * * *

Thomas Petigru Lesesne, author and editor, is a member of a family that has been distinguished in South Carolina since Charleston was a British outpost in a savage land.

Transcriber’s Notes

- Silently corrected a few typos.

- Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

- In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.

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Table of Contents

- LANDMARKS of CHARLESTON
- Foreword
- Contents
- Illustrations
- Historic Charleston
- An Incomparable Stroll
- Landmarks of Charleston
- Index
- Transcriber’s Notes
- THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE